The tech who replaced my alternator (@10K mi) left his permanent fingerprints on my hood...have to try to buff it out. Apart from the bad alternator documented in another thread (hopefully a one-off), the car has been great (especially in winter) - no leaks, no sunroof issues, buzzing, rattling, vibrations, etc.
But its a Ford truck/suv and the alternators ALWAYS go bad on them. Word to the wise, buy an AC Delco replacement or Ford OEM, anything else will just die again-they always do.
First, if your alternator is putting out 13.8V while the car is running, your alternator is fine. Period. If your battery passes a load test after being fully charged, it is fine.
The MK2 alternator setup has a fatter bolt than the Mk1 alternator uses. I've seen how the thinner bolt eventually wears into the alternator and it doesn't sit straight. The MK2 alternator setup also scoots the alternator closer to the timing belt end of the engine, giving a little more room by the radiator and a shorter shaft means less torque on the bearings. You'll need the MK2 alternator wiring,.. I just bolt it to the starter.
My 93 vw cabriolet is running an oem alternator from the factory.
so far the alternator seams to be working. I cut and then put ends on the red wires and bolted them up. I put my multi meter on one of the two prongs on the clip and grounded the other. then turn the alt motor. the one prong that raised up was my exciter wire.
Also, it seems that it is a 120 amp alternator, so you might want to re-think using the Stock Rabbit harness and, instead, run a bigger cable, since the Rabbit alternators were 60 amps max.
Another good way to tell your alternator is going is the battery light illumination. I noticed as I drove to higher RPM's, used the vents or even used windows with more power gave more illumination of the battery light. Tested the alternator at a shop and found it to be weak, battery was fine.
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