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Tesla Battery

Had a Tesla (my username checks out) Model S since 2012 in Ottawa. No problem. Prepare to lose range during winter. (20%ish ) Preheating is key. Check out PlugShare for charging stations. I drove the car in -32 and +32 ! It’s great.

Pros: no problem
Cons: lose range during winter
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Tesla Battery

Tesla Model 3 long range and 2018 Leaf for over a year now.

Winter is about 30% less range at very cold, worse for short drives where you need to heat a lot for the whole drive (and if battery is cold). In the later case you're near home so it doesn't matter.

Pros: instantaneous torque at 0
Cons: 30% less range
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OEM Chevrolet Battery

We've been driving two EVs, a 2012 Leaf since Dec2011 and a 2017 Bolt since Sept 2017.

In the Bolt we lose about 40% range at -20 and lower. Bu the range is so good to begin with its not an issue.

Pros: good range
Cons: 40% range loss
Vehicle: Chevrolet Bolt
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Tesla Battery

I have a Tesla Model 3 I got last year and drove it every day during last winter. No problems other than it uses a bit more of your battery to go. Also using the heat uses a bit more battery as well. I would say about a 20-25% loss in range compared to summer driving.

Pros: electricity is pennies compared to gas
Cons: 20-25% loss in range
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OPTIMA Battery

I have a red top in my XJ and people say the quality has gone down every time Optima is mentioned but I've had nothing but stellar performance from mine. I was about 7 miles in on a trail 2 weeks ago and my alt died. The battery got me back to the main road before it died enough to not run the engine anymore. A little more than an hour back out and some gnarly rock crawling.

Pros: stellar performance, reliable power
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Bosch Battery
nad--
Rating 3.5
  • Lights:

the IP64 battery cover can't close because the battery is too high, it should work no problem with any other 18V Bosch battery including the Procore 4.0Ah.

Good light though, it's really bright.

And heavy.

Pros: Good light, really bright
Cons: battery too high, heavy
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FIAMM Battery
LMF5000
Rating 1.0
  • Cranking:

My car has been sitting idle for long periods due to lockdown. After two incidents where the 3-year-old battery was too depleted to start the engine after sitting for 2 weeks, I resorted to disconnecting the negative terminal when the car would sit for any length of time. Previously I was charging the battery up to 14.4V once every week or two (using a charsoon antimatter hobby charger which does CC-CV charging. Current limit set to 10A, automatic termination of charge when current falls to 1A @ 14.4V in CV stage). This week I did some research on the battery (a Fiamm Platinum 54Ah) and saw that the plates were both Calcium. I read that calcium needs a slightly higher voltage for full charge, so I raised the charge voltage to 2.46V/cell. Ambient temperature is 30°C in Malta. Now the battery seems to have developed high self discharge and is practically useless. I had to top up the battery yesterday to get the engine started. Parked the car at 10pm last night after hours of driving (and 2 hours on the charger). This morning at 6am the engine wouldn't turn over. Connected the battery to the charger, 5 minutes of charging later (only 300mAh put in) and the engine turned over strongly and started no problem. This battery has unfortunately been deep-discharged 3 or 4 times over its life (I think the car has a large standby current).

Cons: high self-discharge, engine wouldn't turn over
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Solite Battery
avtdxb2020
Rating 2.0
  • Cranking:

Avoid Solite, they die fast and usaully the cheapest. Do consider Amaron batteries too, they hold up well in this climate, is a good bang for the buck option.

Pros: good bang for buck
Cons: die fast, cheapest
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