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OEM Toyota Oil filter

When I worked at Scarb.Lexus Toyota I remember the oil filters were definitely a different world of change from the filters you pick up in stores, everything from the seals to the inside filter paper were superior so I always get my filter from the dealer.

Pros: superior seals, filter paper
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Fram Oil filter

I use either Mobil 1 0w20, or Royal Purple 0w20. For the filter, I use Fram Titanium. I do all routine maintenance myself. I've got a 2015 SR DC with 388k miles, and have never had any issues. It still runs perfectly.

Pros: no issues, runs perfectly
Mileage: 624414 km
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Wix Oil filter

Stick with a Bosch or a Wix and your car will last forever: this is very important now that oil change intervals have gotten much longer.

Pros: car will last forever
Vehicle: Honda
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OEM Citroen Oil filter

Was given a Citroen Berlingo that I'm sure hadn't had any maintenance done to it for at least 3 years. When I started investigating why it would start so poorly I discovered that there was only 0.7l of droopy oil in it. Changed the oil, which fixed the 2 cylinder issue immediately. And when I swapped the black sponge that was once an air filter for a new one, the car fired right up as if it was brand new.

Pros: fixed 2 cylinder issue
Cons: poor starting
Vehicle: Citroen Berlingo
Mileage: 7000 km
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Wix Oil filter

Wix has been one of the best I have seen in past years by cutting filters apart. Their pleating is most uniform and abundant plus other internal pieces such as springs, check valves, and relief valves are much high quality.

Pros: high quality, uniform pleating
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Bosch Oil filter
John_E
Rating 3.0
  • Warning light:

I have a 2001 Passat 1.8T, on which the oil and filter have been changed every 6 months or 3K mi, whichever came first. The dealer performed the first 4 oil changes, to the 2-year point, then I took over, always with a Bosch or Napa Gold (Wix) filter. Having received the engine sludge notice, I switched from name-brand dinosaur oil to Mobil 1 at my most recent oil change (last month, 23K miles). Although I receive no adverse temperature or indications at the instrument panel, the valve cover SEEMS perhaps to be running a bit hotter than before. What really concerns me is that, when the engine is warmed up, if I stop and idle it for 30 seconds or so, the engine starts making what to my semi-practiced (but new to VWs!) ear sounds perhaps like valve, lash adjuster, or camshaft bearing clatter. The sound emanates from the rear/cylinder 3-4 area, away from belt-driven accessories, etc. Does this sound like an early symptom of sludge, perhaps associated with insufficient oil pressure at idle? Given my history of frequent oil changes and otherwise by-the-book or better maintenance, I would not have expected to be a sludge victim at 23K miles. I suppose I could have just installed a defective brand-new Bosch filter, or I suppose the synthetic oil could have loosened some sludge from my dinosaur days, but these seem like real stretches for an explanation. Any suggestions regarding diagnostics?

Cons: valve, lash adjuster clatter
Mileage: 37015 km
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Fram Oil filter

last time I did my oil, i made the mistake of using a fram filter. When I went to take it off this week, it wouldn't budge. Only hand tightened when i put it on, wet the seal with oil, and I had no reason to believe there was anything wrong. It took me being at the most awkward angle possible under the car and using every bit of strenght I have for it to finally come off. To this point i have never had to use more than halfish strength to remove one.

Cons: difficult to remove
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