I did this on my mk1, along with a 90A Bosch alternator (AL49X ?) and a variable voltage regulator to get 14V. Also, I replaced all the tail lights and side markers bulbs with LED bulbs (superbrightleds) . This greatly reduced the amps drawn from the alternator.
I just replaced mine last week! I bought a remanufactured Bosch from FCPEuro. Looked brand new. Also was a pretty easy DIY.
Bosch is the OE manufacturer for motorcraft alternators so if you find a Bosch chealt cheaper, go for it. They're the same minus the motorcraft sticker.
That Bosch VR6 alternator was not a direct fit, but significantly easier than the Delcos other Rover owners commonly used. My method was faster, cheaper and way more reliable.
Get a Bosch or Denso alternator. I'd buy used before one of those brands. Just my preference, I know they sell tons of starters and alternators, but I don't like to do things twice.
Update: There was a direct short in the alternator and when it shorted internally it also took out the 200 amp protection fuse ($115) too for the battery. I got a new Bosch unit and I was happy to find out I did not have to bring it to the nearest dealership and that a local German repair shop were able to do it.
The 07K 2.5l came with either a 140A Valeo or 140A Bosch alternator. Be sure you're buying based on alternator brand.
I am pretty sure that the 120A-Vr is much like all of the later Bosch alts with internal cooling. I just took my 120A 1.8t one apart and it is a PITA.
Good thing you got a Bosch instead of the duralast. I had a duralast alternator last about 2 weeks and when I was standing in line at AutoZone to return it and buy a real alternator, there was someone behind me also holding an alternator that lasted two weeks.
So, OK, ended up getting a Bosch Reman from IMC, installed it to find out it was only producing 10Volts @ idle. Took it back out, and installed an Ultima which put out 14Volts @ idle.
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