This Rotella T run looked good.
I have been trying the Shell Rotella T6 out for the last 3 changes. seems to be working out quite well so far. Just checked my fluids yesterday after 2k miles and I only needed about a quarter of a quart. not too shabby.
When I bought my '80 MB 300SD I did an oil chamge with 15w40 Rotella. The first day it dropped below 35* it struggled to start. Below 25* it needed a few hours of block heater time. I changed it out to 5w40 Rotella T synth and 6 years later I've still never plugged it in, even in -10*F.
The zinc and phosphorus levels (ZDDP) is much higher in the redline. Iron per 1000 miles is much better. Viscosity retention and flashpoint are much better also.
I love red line, search for my UOAs... i've tried most of the top teir vw502 approved oils in the FSI (Motul xcess, motul specific, total energy), and they don't even come close to touching red line with regards to longevity / performance.
So far, though, it appears that engine wear and presence of contaminants, as shown by UOAs, are significantly "better" with Rotella T in my car's engine than they were with any other oil I used, and especially Castrol Syntec 5W-40.
I was running Motul 8100 and got tired of having to pay alot of money and get it shipped, so I did alot of research and found that overall, the Rotella is one of the best oils for the price, so I switched to that. I notice no difference in power, and it costs alot less
4 qts Redline 5w40, 1 qt Redline w40 Race Redline blows away the competition... Lumps of ZDDP and Moly with the Race oil mix, fuel dilution pretty much disappeared, and viscosity/flashpoint are well within reason.
I would stick with a tested oil like Red Line 5w-40 or GC, but that's me.
Sticking with a single weight is a better idea than mixology IMO..
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