I use Pagid RSL29s on my M3, I don't bother switching pads after events. They work great on the street but I'm in Texas so it rarely gets below 45 degrees here. They squeal but the dust isn't too bad. I don't daily it but I wouldn't have an issue if I did. The squeal is annoying but really not too bothersome to me even though I drive 95% of the time with my windows down.
With the Febi thermostat in, temps are now usually about 180F, though jumping up to 190F at times (versus 190F-200F), and the max it occasionally will go is about 200F (rather than 203F). It's worth noting the Febi is stamped at 79C (although somehow still 180F) versus the 180F/82C that the Tridon/Motorad Thermostat is, and I've also drilled a 2mm bleed hole in the Febi which may have made it run ever so slightly cooler again.
Koni Yellows with IEM Stage 3 (H&R’s progressive rate springs were out of stock at the time,) So good. Did all the bushings/linkages at the same time, it drives like a dream
I ran Bilstein B8 and Eibach on my previous E30.
I really liked it, but apparently Eibach springs are very soft, so there are probably many better options for track use.
I've been through stock, Bilstein Sports, H&R Race, stock length housing coilovers, and various cheap camber plates and after all of that, I'm finally happy with my setup.
I run koni yellow and hr sport on my vert and it’s been excellent. Just as comfortable as stock with a much more planted feel
you dont even need ISTA to figure out the alternator is dead. A fresh and charged batter will sit at 13v, used should always be around 12v. while charging it should be 13v. the fact this is dropping while the car is running suggests a shot alternator right off the bat
You'll need decent pads, and ones that can handle a car with a bit of weight behind it, think Pagid RSL29, Winmax W5 or Mintex 1166 if you're not going mad. You'll want to flush out your brake fluid and replace it with something that will take the heat as the tiny brakes on a 325i WILL overheat, its not a matter of if, its a matter of when, good fluid will stop you from boiling it and crashing!
As others mentioned, run-flats are more suspectable to sidewall damage. They're also heavier and noisier. Also, you may have a wider selection of tires if you go with non-runflat.
I got the wheel and tire warranty when I bought my car. They’ve already replaced 4 run flats for free. I got 2 blowouts in the last 2 weeks hitting pretty average sized potholes that I’ve never had issues before with. Run flats suck.
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