LiquiMoly in my 130k mile M3/4/5. For no real reason other than misplaced brand loyalty.
M50TUB20 (Euro '94 320i) - I've been running Yacco VX600 5W-40 since I got it, I'm close to 6k miles
M44 1.9, Mobil 1 Super 10W40, though I have to admit I use Castrol Edge in everything usually.
Next, I used dish soap as a lubricant (I had purchased silicon spray but I was advised to use dish soap by many people and it really seemed better). Now, this part is a little weird because initially, the bushing didn't want to slide in, it kept popping out. I pushed really hard and still, it popped out. On 3rd trial, I wiggled it as I pushed it and it slid right in, didn't need to use a hammer or anything like that, it was really really easy.
Pal has Volvo brakes on his bmw E10.
i have the febi tank installed on both my e46's and the work fine.
I got an already fully charged duracell battery at my local Batteries and Bulbs location in California. Works like a charm just needed to get top posts for it to work in the i3.
N54 335i - 200k miles radiator upgraded
The brakes. Looks all OE. The dust is unbelievable awful.
My '89 325iX doesn't put out much heat at idle, but as soon as I rev it to 2000 rpm, the heat starts coming out of the vents. At idle it is around 65°F air and at 2000 rpm it goes up to around 95°F (it is ~35°F outside today). I noticed a whistling noise that seems to come from the water pump at idle. Once the car got to normal operating temperature, I noticed that at idle coolant stopped coming out of the bleed hole. If I revved the engine a bit, coolant would flow. I replaced the water pump (Graf) 2900 miles and 3.5 months ago. My intuition is that the water pump isn't generating sufficient pressure at idle to move the coolant through the heater core.
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