Just get the noco nlp30. I got it for my Mazda 5, my wife's Corolla iM and I'll be getting one for my Miata in the coming months as well.
I went from stock pads directly to Akebono ProACT. Once they bed, they will feel be the same or better than stock. Not rough, not loud. I mention the bedding wait because initially the bite wasn’t there and I was a little concerned but after the pads ate away the protective coatings on new rotors it was the same or better.
Ebc yellow stuff pads are pretty nice. Got em on my NB. Wouldn’t hurt to replace your pads with those. Break in process asks for new rotors but you can probably get away without em if you really don’t wanna do it, I did.
I'm about to change my wheels. Was also thinking about brake discs. I think I might replace them, was thinking of getting slightly better discs and pads. I know it's not necessary but I might as well. Was thinking about Dixcel FS discs and ES pads. Maybe even get steel brake lines. I do tend to drive my car harder on the canyon/mountain roads and I like to brake late. Would be nice to have something a little extra. Plus they look nicer than the stock discs.
I would and have used Mobil 1 0w20 or 0w30 in my CX 5 . During the first 36k miles ,I used Idemitsu 0w20 and a Mazda filter . After the warranty period ,I used Mobil 1 ,mostly because the Idemitsu price went way up. I may be wrong ,but I believe that Idemitsu is the Mazda branded engine oil . 5000k mile intervals .
The Pirellis are an excellent tire . Great in the rain and snow plus handle very well in all weather.
Ferodo Ds2500 as brake pads or Ebc Yellostuff (a tad cheaper). Avoid drilled or grooved rotors because kinda useless. Just a good oem equivalent like Brembo (if in you market have CTF go for it)
I switched to EBC redstuff ceramic from my OEM pads on my MX-5. They are marketed as slightly higher performance than OEM with much improved wear and dust levels. In my experience they are maybe slightly more grabby initially, otherwise they perform similarly to OEM, but their claims about dust levels were not true at all in my case, they dusted FAR more than OEM. I get noticeable dust after a few days compared to maybe a few weeks before.
The next thing that went wrong was the passenger side brake caliper seized up. I spent a grand on front brakes and rotors.
The problem with LRR tires is they suck at doing the things you need a tire to do, like braking and cornering. I once put a set of Bridgestone Ecopias on a Mazda5... A FWD minivan with 153 Horsepower should not be able to spin the tires all the way through 1st and 2nd gears taking off from a stop sign.
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