Reviews of spare parts for Porsche 911

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Other spare parts for Porsche 911

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OEM Porsche Brake pads

If you never get the brakes terribly hot (single high-energy braking events are fine, I'm talking extended periods of track or track-like driving here when I say "hot"), porsche OEM pads work great. If you do run the car under track or track-like conditions, the OEM pads never fade (in my experience), but they do wear out alarmingly fast.

Pros: great performance, no fade
Cons: wear out fast, track use
Vehicle: Porsche 911
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OEM Porsche Brake pads

I tried looking at different brands of pads for my 911. Just ended up going with OEM pads. Turns out most people think Porsche OEM is the best stuff and I've learned for many aspects of these cars that is true. This is very different from every other car I owned where you could either get better performance or reduced costs by going aftermarket. With my Porsche I couldn't find a pad that offered better daily driver + some hard driving performance... or was cheaper without sacrificing performance.

Pros: best performance, good quality
Cons: expensive, no better aftermarket
Vehicle: Porsche 911
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DELPHI Engine mount
Wimbledon
Rating 5.0
  • Vibration:
  • Jerks:
  • Thumps:

Magneto rheological (MR) fluid has some pretty amazing properties. It can change from a low-viscosity liquid to a very stiff, nearly solid substance in milliseconds with the mere application of a magnetic field. Now that technology is heading from shock absorbers to engine mounts, and the first car to get the new mounts is the 2010 Porsche 911 GT3.

Pros: amazing properties, improves stability
Vehicle: Porsche 911
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OEM Porsche Brake discs
oldracer
Rating 5.0
  • Braking:

Maybe i'm pessimistic...I go by Steinberg's law: He beleived Murphy was an optimist......... When you sit in training with the Germans they obsess about every little tolerance, and potential problem and rotor wear & pad wear cause caliper pistons to come out further than they like and are a possible issue. (Piston gets cocked in its cylinder, seen it happen.) Eventually it rubs off........I raced 911s 's for 17 straight seasons, raced nascar Modifieds, and road raced Superbikes until recently.....I prefer to not have the possibility of some part not being as good as it ought to be when its my equipment...... Most people do not want to spend any $$ if they can avoid it, I get that too, been there before. Parts are cheap in the big picture, so I like all new and matching stuff so I can use it to the max without worrying until its time to do it again. I hear you about car knowledge, I don't profess to know everything, but when you do stuff 1000's of times on all types of vehicles, you do actually learn a little something... I will always replace my rotors, pads and lines if needed together, I respect your way for you. I think that the engineers may be overly cautious, but I'm going with them every time. By the way, i have burnt pads up and cracked rotors on the 911s as I am an extreme braker at the track, it was the only way to pass the faster cars, and you aren't out there to lose...(last 2 years -21 class wins, 18 2nds & 4 3rds) The 911 brakes in the 60s, 70, & 80s were not as good as they are now, they have evolved into stupendous brakes, but anything 1 man can build, another can break....... Our Roadrace motorcycles never got a patched tire for obvious reasons - 190+ on Daytona banks, but I'm good with a properly done inside tire repair patch on cars. lastly, the people on this board are driving a performance car and most drive them hard, so there would be no such thing as too much maintenance or overkill......I feel after all these years the German cars are the best engineered and with that there are tradeoffs, higher parts cost is a prominent one......I think VW is not too bad in that area compared to others...i'm good with $200 a set of rotors, some aren't..... I do not think the recommendation for matched set replacement is about selling more parts or the $$, they 100% believe that is the proper way to do the repair based on their design & knowledge of their product. I'm good with that. By the way measuring for enough thickness is fine, but as rotors should always be true & flat with new pads, that means turning and if they are close to undersize, now we are back to:::::::replacing them http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm to old, so i just freaking buy them put them on & I'm good for 30K + miles again..... Happy Wednesday!!!!!!

Pros: engineers obsess about tolerances, prefer new matching parts
Cons: potential for caliper piston issues, rotors should be true & flat
Vehicle: Porsche 911
Mileage: 30000 km
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OEM Porsche Brake discs

The porsche 911 GT3 comes with cross drilled vented rotors, and thats good enough for me. Its not that I think they're better than slotted, these are the first of either cross drilled or slotted rotors that I've used, and I think they work great, and I haven't experienced any problems with them, thats alllllll I'm saying.

Pros: work great, no problems
Vehicle: Porsche 911
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K&N Air filter
Hellgate
Rating 1.0
  • Visible dirt:

I've been an OE filter fan since about 1999. Then I had an '87 Carrera and built a killer NA motor, Euro pistons, SC cams, ARP bolts everywhere, Ti bits, SSI headers, custom muffler, a custom Autothority chip, and a big fat K&N air filter. I was detailing the car for a concourse and removed the K&N. The intake runner was covered in gritty dust/dirt.

Cons: gritty dust/dirt
Vehicle: Porsche 911
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