Pierburg is the OEM maker of the BMW water pump. Spending the extra for the BMW is ridiculous when they are 100% the same exact same pump from the same company from the same factory.
I'm working on adapting these water pumps to a variety of older engines. This one will be going on a Chevy LSx. The pumps support two different control schemes; one via PWM (no feedback) and one via LIN. I will be working on reversing the LIN communications and building a more sophisticated controller soon.
There is an Ebay seller who seems to have a lot of new old pumps. I bought one from him a few years ago and its the OE Pierburg pump, so it installed without issue, just transferred the sender over.
12.9 ohms on a brand new Pierburg pump and flange assembly.
There's a dude on Ebay selling new, pierburg, 4 bar fuel pumps... Put one in my corrado and it's doing great so far. The level sender does clip to the side of the pump housing a little differently, but it does still work.
PIERBURG makes a good water pump...
I too chose pierburg from fcp. Questionable weather it\u2019s any better than oem. I appreciated the all aluminum housing of the pierburg as it provides one less failure point which is the possibility of the plastic cracking due to an over torqued hose clamp.
It happens. I’ve had maybe 3-4 do this out of probably 300 we’ve changed at the shop. Once was a pierburg but the rest were autozone duralast etc.
I picked the pierburg for all aluminum casing and impeller. They were both about the same price last time I needed to get one. Note that the pierburg failed at not even 10k miles. I replaced with another pierburg chalking it up to bad luck. The only advantage I can think of with the pierburg is the fact that you can torque down the hoses that use clamps and not have to worry about cracking the housing. But in reality doubtful that is a risk. Also it won’t be in service long enough to get brittle enough to matter.
I have been having consistent issues with the TB. It has had the factory wire extension. Situation is as follows: Steady driving car is fine but I do get several bucks and sputters while accelerating (probably misfires) On take offs from stop signs or red lights the car will violently buck unless you are careful with the gas pedal, but ultimately 8 times out of ten will result in EPC light coming on and now you're in limp mode.
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