80 votes
Okay actually got some stuff done this weekend. Got the new rear spindles, refurbished backing plates, rotors, metal lines and soft lines, re conditioned original calipers…sure I’ll be revisiting these lol.
Why do I have to screw in the brake calipers with the world's stupidest Phillips?
Took it in to a shop today. They said calliper needs replacing. Rear driver side. Said they will put a new calliper, do a brake fluid flush, readjust the hand brake. I said break flush was done just about 3 months ago. It’s a clean light golden yellow color still. The mechanic said still needs to be done to get air out of the system. Seems logical. They quoted $740+tax. Does that sound reasonable?
Originally thought it was a seized caliper. Car needed a brake job as rotors have corroded away so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads on the front. Symptoms: Caliper on front right doesn't release fully. Audible drag, vibration, heat etc. If i stop and pump the breaks (hard) two or three times it releases (50% of the time). So if it doesn't, pump again. Conversely, light application to the brakes results in the caliper not releasing. Drag strength varies. Sometimes it's slight and causes a slight squeal and light vibration at speed. Sometimes the car won't move when put into drive (it's an automatic).
I actually replaced drivers rear caliper last year, retaining the original actuator and it was perfectly fine since then until suddenly the parking brake failure this year. Old caliper wasn't moving correctly so I ended up smelling and seeing the smoke driving home one day.
I feel no difference in pedal feel or stopping distance. It's the aesthetics that made the difference for me.
So if you don't want to spend all that money on the full setup, a Mk7 Golf R caliper is direct bolt on fit to the Arteon. I spent $200 for calipers on EBay, $100 for a rebuild kit, $80 for new OE pads and $40 to reline the discs. Bolted right up.
A couple weekends ago I first tried to tackle the issue with the brake pedal nearly hitting the floor while driving, I figured it was do to the brakes needing to be bled, so on a weekend I put the car up in the air, proceeded to snap both bleeder screws on the calipers, swap on used ones off my red 16v and bleed the brakes.
I replaced both rear calipers, pads and both electro mechanical parking brake motors on my 2009 Tiguan. Now the yellow 'P' dashboard symbol is always on.
2018 Tiguan w/181k miles...purchased new. Overall the motor has held up no issues other than wiring harness. I never go beyond 10k miles for oil changes and 80k miles for trans oil. I had to replace a rear brake electronic module and a few months later one of the rear calipers.
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The brand is registered in Germany. Official website: https://www.volkswagen.de/.
In March 2026, PartReview users have a mixed opinion of OEM Volkswagen brake caliper.
PR Score — 65 out of 100, based on 25 reviews and 80 votes. 14 positive reviews, 5 neutral reviews, 6 negative reviews. Average rating — 3.5 (out of 5). Vote balance: 52 up, 28 down.
In the ranking of the best brake caliper this part is at position 7, behind Akebono and OEM Audi , but ahead of POWER STOP and ATE.
Users also evaluated the qualities of OEM Volkswagen brake caliper:
See which car brands and models owners choose OEM Volkswagen brake caliper for. Below are car-specific ratings where this part is in the Top-3:
There are 7 comparisons of OEM Volkswagen brake caliper with other manufacturers on PartReview.
In particular, see which brake caliper are better: Akebono or OEM Volkswagen, OEM Volkswagen or OEM Audi, WILWOOD or OEM Volkswagen, OEM Volkswagen or OEM Porsche, POWER STOP or OEM Volkswagen .
