Valvoline Dot 3&4 is probably one of if not the best value fluid. It's perfect for autox and some novice tracking, and makes for a good street fluid. I've found the brake pedal stays firmer over time much better than ATE Type 200, Motul 5.1 and especially Motul 600.
I’ve had good luck running Valvoline VR-1 in engines with flat tappet cams.
Valvoline VR1 in whatever viscosity is suitable for the season and the VR1 has plenty of zinc for old engines.
Lo de \"valvulina\" es de tralla. El Valvoline, era un aceite de alta densidad,\u00a0 (SAE 90 -140 ) que se utilizaba por esa marca para los diferenciales y antiguas cajas de pi\u00f1ones rectos o sin sincronizadores.
If you’re burning any oil 20w-50 valvoline racing full synthetic. If everything is good and oil 10w30 full synthetic
that oil helped my Honda out tremendously with oil burning.
I use Valvoline Zerex Asian Blue in mine. Good stuff, and compatible with OEM Mitsubishi coolant, for like half the price.
had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
I just found this thread. I have a 2014 Jetta 1.8t with 107k that I bought for my daughter two years ago and it burns through a quart of oil about every month. It dropped cyinder 1 similar to what the other person experienced, but new plugs and ignition coils solved the problem.
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