Also after running ATs on my XC90, I could never go back to not having all that extra meat on the outside edges - especially on the fronts.
I've done many timing belts. The locking tool is a "nice to have" but certainly not required. You should be checking your cam sprocket alignment before turning the engine over, anyway, so just take your time and be careful and you'll avoid most issues.
Coworker made this for me after I spent the whole day replacing the cat on a new XC90
currently on Kroon Oil 10w40 non synthetic. Volvo oil filter, 10k km intervals
Those alternators are damn near bulletproof, it’s the voltage regulators that crap out. If it were me, I’d keep the OEM unit, replace the pulley, and swap out the voltage regulator while I was at it.
I'd also replace the brake pads with ceramic (same/less cost than OEM) as they stop better and shed very little brake dust unlike the OEM Volvo units.
Well my Volvo dealership wanted $400 for a battery so yeah... It's the small things that cost the most at dealerships, maybe as a way to lessen to cost of bigger jobs so you're not paying tens of thousands for a major job.
I've got an '07 V8 Sport with 90k miles. The summary I'd give is that it'll be a good bet after it's a bit of a money pit. I've dropped about $2,500 on mine in the last year for routine maintenance. Everything is more expensive on this vehicle, but as long as you keep up on routine maintenance they are bullet proof. At 90k, you'll want to know if the power steering pump has been replaced ($1,100 for an indy Volvo specialist to do it) as it's going out or about to. A/C compressor is also known to be funky around this time period ($600 if fixed, $1,200 + if replaced). Plus these vehicles are HEAVY so the suspension components start to wear down. They also EAT tires more than any vehicle i've ever owned.
The piston ring design is faulty on Volvo's 2.0 drive-e engine from its 2015 introduction to halfway through 2016. They get fouled with carbon, allowing oil to blow by and leading to excessive oil consumption. I started getting low-oil messages right around 80k miles, and by the time I got it in for an oil consumption test it was burning a quart every 600 miles.
I have a 2007 S60 and the timing belt was replaced by a non-specialist soon after I purchased it. The tension on the belt has to be just right, and the non-specialist mechanic way over-torqued it. Had I not noticed the issue and taken the car to a specialist, it could have pulled the engine apart.
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