Mine went out at like 105k swapped out a Bosch immediately but if not always go with denso.
Well I definitely wouldn't have gone aftermarket but I understand you might have been in a pickle
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-alternator-bosch-al157x?ads_cmpid=21619732995
As far as why it's not working at all, you need very good clean connections including good ground connections everywhere
Bosch is a OE supplier to BMW - I would choose that over Valeo if it were a choice I needed to make.
I installed a new BOSCH alternator in my MERCEDES-BENZ 190E 2.0 1991, and unlike the old one, this one has a **D+ port, a B+ port 1, and a B+ port 2.**
This is a known issue with non OEM and especially bosch alternators, the regulator gives a different signal to the power control unit.
I'm swapping my 90a Valeo alternator for a remanufactured Bosch one. (Which actually says Valeo on it but has a Bosch part number and came in a Bosch box.)
I have replaced my alternator with a good "?" Bosch alternator and it charged for 3 days but now the battery light is on until the motor is above 2500 rpm
I burned up 4 of the duralast Gold GM 12si alternators while they were still under warranty, if I had to venture a guess it would be they don't like high RPM . I removed them from two of my samurai's and went back to stock, haven't had a problem since
I went through 3 duralast nators on my wife's exploder before I got one that lasted more than 6mos. Aftermarket everything has mostly gone to shit.
I have experience with both shitty Autozone Duralast alternators and I would not purchase them.
I have shadow codes for my water pump because of it, and my voltage is not high enough at idle, and never surpasses 13.5ish volts. It whines loudly, and it doesn't make the same power as my last alternator contrary to the ratings.
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