After that I would pick the Bosch reman. A junk new alternator is going to last a fraction of the time of these 2.
The Bosch reman is the one I'd go for. I've got it in mine.
you dont even need ISTA to figure out the alternator is dead. A fresh and charged batter will sit at 13v, used should always be around 12v. while charging it should be 13v. the fact this is dropping while the car is running suggests a shot alternator right off the bat
Fcp euro, Bosch alternator for less than $400 including core charge, free shipping. Lifetime replacement. Believe it’s 5% off 250+ currently as well. Bosch is the OE supplier, no aftermarket concerns.
I ended up getting a new Bosch AL49X from Bavarian Autosport (back in the day). IIRC, I needed to purchase a new pulley and fan since the old ones were Valeo and incompatible with Bosch. I sort of remember also needing a different / non-standard belt length.
Mine turned out to be a 60/90A by Valeo, replaced it with an OEM 100A BOSCH refurbisged one for like... 150 bucks, send in the old one and got fiddy bucks back. Was for sure a pretty colid upgrade and You even feel a difference in the Performance.
Looks very similar to a Porsche 944 alternator.
I own the exact car, when I bought it, it came with a bad replacement alternator. The replacement was an eBay brand which was causing all sorts of faults. I replaced it with a Bosch unit and the car seemed fine. A few weeks after the replacement, I started getting a random limp mode with various under and over voltage errors. At this point I decided to buy and install a BMW branded alternator. This took care of issue.
Symptoms: Flickering lights, and occasional hiccup start. Now battery light is coming on and staying on. When stationary battery tests around 12.5 volts. When running, that drops to 11.7 volts.
On my '93 240, I used a 740 external regulator Bocsh alternator...100amps...the problem is is that the voltage regulator takes a dump, which leads to people replacing the entire unit (like me years ago).
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