vs
Alternator OEM BMW or Duralast
I went with a Duralast Gold(90A) which never gave me a issue. If I had a oscilliscope im sure it had good output.
Pros: good output, no issues
Vehicle:
Acura RSX
Possibly the alternator, mine did that so I bought a brand new duralast gold alternator and it solved so many of my problems.
Pros: solved many problems
My alternator went and I never had any lights, just weird electrical gremlins and batteries dying. Replaced it myself, took maybe 2 hours and the part was like $150 after the core return
Pros: easy to replace
Cons: weird electrical gremlins
Vehicle:
BMW
For hpw old your car is, and the price of these boys in the photo, id go to your local autozone and get their alternator, simply because they come with a lifetime warranty
Pros: lifetime warranty
Vehicle:
Acura TLX
I’ve had two D/L Alternators. Each has lasted 3 or 4 years.
Vehicle:
Toyota 4runner
Sometimes when u replace the alternator but the battery is bad it'll just fry your new alternator.
Cons: battery can fry alternator
Vehicle:
BMW
Duralast are shit alternator. See it time and time again people buy them and have more problems afterwards.
Cons: poor quality, causes problems
I burned up 4 of the duralast Gold GM 12si alternators while they were still under warranty, if I had to venture a guess it would be they don't like high RPM . I removed them from two of my samurai's and went back to stock, haven't had a problem since
Cons: don't like high RPM
I went through 3 duralast nators on my wife's exploder before I got one that lasted more than 6mos. Aftermarket everything has mostly gone to shit.
Cons: lasted less than 6mos
I have experience with both shitty Autozone Duralast alternators and I would not purchase them.
I have shadow codes for my water pump because of it, and my voltage is not high enough at idle, and never surpasses 13.5ish volts. It whines loudly, and it doesn't make the same power as my last alternator contrary to the ratings.
Cons: whines loudly, low voltage
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