vs
Alternator OEM BMW or Duralast
I'd just get something with a warranty. I've been using Duralast from Autozone for the longest time and haven't had too many issues
Pros: warranty, not many issues
you dont even need ISTA to figure out the alternator is dead. A fresh and charged batter will sit at 13v, used should always be around 12v. while charging it should be 13v. the fact this is dropping while the car is running suggests a shot alternator right off the bat
Vehicle:
BMW M2
Just bought and installed a Duralast Gold from Autozone last week for my '07 9-5. It has a little whine at 2500 RPM but works better than OEM. Has a lifetime warranty and it's 100% new too!
Pros: works better than OEM, lifetime warranty
Cons: whine at 2500 RPM
Vehicle:
Saab
When my alternator failed in my 24v, I replaced the alternator with a duralast, replaced the harness and fuse panel with OEM parts, and 50k later it's still working like a champ.
Pros: working like a champ
Mileage: 50000 km
I’ve never had an issue with a Duralast starter or alternator. However, honestly, I probably wouldn’t put one on my Lexus. I’ve generally shoved them into cheaper and simpler cars.
Pros: no issues with Duralast
Cons: wouldn't put on Lexus
Vehicle:
Lexus IS
Autozone will give lifetime warranty on certain (duralast gold maybe?) alternators. I got the replacement very wet (dumb), and it died while I was driving.
Pros: lifetime warranty
Cons: died while driving
The refurbished Duralast alternator has worked fine for a few months but the last month I started to hear belt noise and assumed it was related to the alternator. The last couple of weeks I would smell a new unknown burnt smell that smoked like either rubber or electronics which has led me to wonder if the battery/alternator fuses have gone out.
Pros: worked fine for months
Cons: belt noise, burnt smell
I got a alternator from AutoZone( duralast pos) and a new battery , same thing, car started with new battery ,voltage at the battery was around 12.5 and voltage directly on the alternator was the same exact voltage as the battery which showed the alternator still wasn\u2019t charging I took that alternator out got my money back and went to a reputable alternator and starter shop around my area and got a quality rebuilt one. They tested the alternator before they gave it to me and confirmed it was in working order. I installed it and still the alternator is not charging the battery , i checked voltage directly at the new alternator and still got the same voltage as the battry while the engine was running , so its still not charging the battery or producing power
Pros: quality rebuilt alternator
Cons: alternator not charging
Vehicle:
Toyota
Believe it or not, though I installed a brand new alternator(Duralast gold) that turned out to be bad from the start and I had to replace it again(so I guess what I’m saying is check the tention on your belt, but don’t rule out the new alternator as - also - being bad), been 2 years since tho.
Cons: bad from the start
I purchased a Duralast 115A Alternator 14921 (remanufactured) which, once we moved the pulley and fan from old to new, it mounted up without a hitch. Once the battery was charged I connected everything up and she started right up. However, the voltmeter was hanging around 12V so we put a multimeter on the battery and only saw 12V+/-.
Pros: mounted up without a hitch
Cons: voltmeter hanging around 12V
Vehicle:
Porsche
Part number: 14921
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