I've owned a 2011 Nissan Sentra since it only had 10 miles. It's been 15 years and the only repairs I have had to do were my own mistakes (hitting curbs and such). I've only ever changed the bands once, but never touched anything else on the engine. The AC/Heater work the same as day 1. One of my windows won't go down with its own button, but I can still control it from the driver side. I've done basic maintenence, oil changes, new brake pads, new windshield wipers, etc. But haven't needed any major work done. Even the batteries have lasted in the car (though this specific year and model had a recall for faulty battery terminals).
The first 10 years or so, I drove it EVERYWHERE in CA. Road trips every weekend and driving through not small car friendly terrain.
In the 15 years, I crashed it twice. No serious injuries and no car blowing up (I've heard so many rumors that Nissans blow in accidents.. they don't anymore than any other car would). It's running a little funky now for the past 2 years, but again, completely my fault. The last crash was full speed at a curb and damaged the mainframe.
It's a little over 200,000 miles and I'm finally looking to get a new car, but im scared I won't find one as reliable. I've had this car since I was 18, I'm 32 now!
The battery in my MB was the original Bosch so 20 years old when I replaced it.
(for general reference Lion are one of the worst battery brands out there. Exide are OK but that's far too expensive. Bosch and Varta are generally the exact same product with different stickers on and are always good, and rarely all that expensive.
I will second a class 3 Bosch. I have one in a hilly city that absolutely rocks the steeps and has a great battery life. Going on 2 years strong and I've had zero battery issues. It rains a lot here but no problems with the Shimano drivetrain either, just regular maintenance.
I decided to get a 2019 titan at 55k miles haven’t had any major problems! But they do have an electrical problem with the battery. Fix: disconnect a grey plug that’s on the negative cable! It regulates the alternator voltage. It can cause the battery to fail quicker over time! But I like that the truck is always running on 8 cyl and still uses a power steering instead of electric steering!
We have a 2023 Rogue and had to have the original battery replaced only a few months in. Had the run around of multiple long battery tests.
The Bosch has slightly lower Cold Cranking Amps at 330 vs the Yuasa at 360. Also Bosch has 4 yr warranty vs Yuasa 5yr.
I went to a Škoda dealer to look at a car to buy. The car was a Rapid 1.4 SE DSG which was advertised at £8995. The car was stored remotely from the dealer, basically in a field. The battery was completely flat.
Only problem was when a battery blew and that totalled my last Leaf after 154.000 km (98000miles) .
A few hours later he came back with a new S4 018 Bosch battery (original one was Yuasa HSB056). He assured me it had the same specs, despite being a different brand (40Ah, 12V). He installed it, and then told me it was a “slightly different base size” from the old one.
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