vs
Battery OEM Volvo or Duralast
I just replaced my 2012 Volvo XC 60 battery. The car has 155k miles and the battery lasted for over 13 yrs. I drive in cold weather for over 6months/yr.
Pros: lasted over 13 years, good in cold weather
Vehicle:
Volvo XC60
Mileage: 249448 km
Didn’t even have to replace the battery in that time (11 years).
Pros: long lasting
Vehicle:
Volvo XC70
I bought a Duralast Platinum H5 AGM. I have read several instances of Subaru of America reimbursement.
Vehicle:
Subaru Outback
Part number: H5 AGM
Recently installed the Duralast Platinum. One week in and everything is working like a new battery should be.
Pros: working as expected, good performance
I drove over to Autozone and asked to borrow their battery/alternator scanner. CC amperage was way down, so just threw a new battery in there, and all is good. Ended up costing $230 even with tax, and $22 core charge credit for their Duralast with a 3 year warranty.
Pros: new battery, all good
Cons: CC amperage way down
Vehicle:
Kia
Just a heads up I had same issue with my Titan and it was the battery. I purchased a cheaper battery and 6 months in I get only a click when trying to start truck. Sometimes would start sometimes not. Then I bought the same battery again to see if that would fix the issue. This time it didn\u2019t start at all with the same type of battery, tested 100% charge and 100% battery life. So I said let me try buying a better quality battery just to see if anything happens, sure enough the truck started. It has kept starting ever since.
Pros: truck started, issue fixed
Cons: cheaper battery failed
Vehicle:
Nissan
Both Duralast Golds. Went with Neverstart AGM from wally world about 2 months ago.
Last December, the OEM battery died and I replaced it with a new Duralast battery from AutoZone. Fast forward to today, the car wouldn’t start at all. Had to jump it just to get it running and drove straight to AutoZone to get it tested.
Cons: car wouldn’t start
Vehicle:
Mazda
Mileage: 31000 km
The battery is almost certainly dead.
Something else wrong with your car likely killed the battery and if that's the case buying a new battery will just result in the same problem pretty soon.
Cons: battery is dead
That battery is absolutely cooked, sounds like the cells have sulfated to hell or there's internal damage from deep cycling
The fact that it's only taking 72-94Wh when it should be 600Wh is screaming dead cells, and that voltage drop from 12.8 to 4v in 2 hours is not normal even with parasitic draw
Pros: screaming dead cells
Cons: battery is cooked
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