Battery YUASA or OEM BMW

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Reviews found: 0
OEM BMW Battery
stthicket
Rating 5.0
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The battery is most likely to outlive the rest of the car. No need to worry. If the car has enough range for your daily need, then keeping it will be the best option.

Pros: battery likely to outlive car
Vehicle: BMW
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YUASA Battery

For the last couple years my riding mower has been starting off of the Yuasa battery that I had taken out of my Valkyrie. I took it out because it was 10 years old and I thought I might be pushing my luck with it. I credit using a tender to give me 12+ years on my bike battery plus it\u2019s a quality battery.

Pros: quality battery, long life
Vehicle: Honda
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YUASA Battery

Had this issue with the R1250RT - apparently the hot engine means more compression, so need more power to start - after a while the OEM-battery just doesn’t have the punch.

I upgraded the battery to the Yuasa YTX20CH‑BS and it solved the problem.

Pros: solved the problem
Cons: OEM battery not punchy
Part number: YTX20CH‑BS
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OEM BMW Battery

If you really want to buy this one (I find the price quite high, but I don’t know the specific market in Norway), buy an OBD adapter and EVScanner app on iOS with the BMW module. You can check the SOH of the battery and the general state of it as the replacement could be quite costly (around 1500 per module and you could have to replace up to the six if all fail or the BMS). I’d guess the SOH would be at best around 85%, maybe less. The engine itself is pretty reliable as it’s a detuned B48 from the 330i. Go to the infotainment and check the stats from factory and the percentage of eDrive kilometers (full electric) compared to the total kilometers, it would give you an idea of how the car was used and how much charging it got. This specific model of car is great to drive if you can charge everyday and you drive mainly short distances. I do around 80 km daily, almost all highway and my average consumption on those drives is 3.5 liters and 10 kWh/100, so it’s about 2/3 of the cost of my previous car, while beeing a lot better to drive. I’d still buy a 320 or 330i instead because there will be less things that could fail and I would probably not want to get such a high mileage PHEV without knowing how it’s been previously used. Source: I have a 330e from 2021 with 112k km and the SOH of the battery is 90% with around 1400 cycles. Average consumption since factory is 4.9 l/100 km and about half of the distance have been made fully electric.

Pros: great to drive, good fuel economy
Cons: high price, costly battery replacement
Vehicle: BMW
Mileage: 112000 km
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OEM BMW Battery
thefudd
Rating 5.0
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I took a drive in my i4 a couple of weeks ago that estimated I'd get home with 4% battery. Guess what I rolled into the garage with..... 4% battery. These modern systems are pretty damn accurate.

Pros: pretty damn accurate
Vehicle: BMW
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OEM BMW Battery

BMW 3 series in the right rear panel. The location is ok, but the box is just enough to slip in a group 49, and there is an air vent hose on the forward side, and a clamp on the rear bottom that is impossible to reach with anything but little elf hands. Then there's also the starter cable, battery management and regular wires running in the same area, all hopelessly in the way..

Pros: location is ok
Cons: box is small
Vehicle: BMW
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OEM BMW Battery

My new BMW X3 was reliable.

It reliably would NOT start whenever the temperature dropped below -20C, even with a battery tender on it. The dealer couldn’t find anything wrong with it.

Cons: would not start
Vehicle: BMW X3
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YUASA Battery

I bought a 6v Yuasa battery for my old Harley and it lasted about six months. Would drop from fully charged to 2.5 volts in a week of sitting.

Cons: lasted about six months
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