I had the same issue on my w213 - same warning every now and then until one day it just didn’t start. Replaced the battery and solved the issue.
I have a yuasa ybx 3000 recharging battery for Mazda 6 2011. I've had it three years with no problems since recently.
Historically, OEM Mercedes batteries are really good and last many years.
For the last couple years my riding mower has been starting off of the Yuasa battery that I had taken out of my Valkyrie. I took it out because it was 10 years old and I thought I might be pushing my luck with it. I credit using a tender to give me 12+ years on my bike battery plus it\u2019s a quality battery.
Had this issue with the R1250RT - apparently the hot engine means more compression, so need more power to start - after a while the OEM-battery just doesn’t have the punch.
I upgraded the battery to the Yuasa YTX20CH‑BS and it solved the problem.
I prefer Yuasa.
Everyone's suggesting things that might save you half a percent or so, but no one has pointed out that by driving at 80mph, you lose *around 30% more battery* than if you were doing 70mph over the same distance
If the battery dropped to 9V it is probably defective.
I bought a Yuasa battery from AutoPro, and they told me it comes with a 2-year warranty. After about one and a half years, the battery almost completely died. I had it tested and was told it was dead and needed replacement.
I bought a 6v Yuasa battery for my old Harley and it lasted about six months. Would drop from fully charged to 2.5 volts in a week of sitting.
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