Had this issue with the R1250RT - apparently the hot engine means more compression, so need more power to start - after a while the OEM-battery just doesn’t have the punch.
I upgraded the battery to the Yuasa YTX20CH‑BS and it solved the problem.
I prefer Yuasa.
I live in Taiwan and Yuasa batteries are made here so they\u2019re cheap as chips.
I have ordered a Yuasa 7031 which has 72Ah VS 40Ah on the 7055, and 720CCA VS 400CCA.
I only buy Yuasa batteries . The one's that come with the acid pack. I had one on my Honda Valkyrie that lasted 10 years. It never failed but at 10 years I thought it best to replace it.
After multiple electrical tests, and multiple batteries fitted, the Yuasa 7055 did the trick. EV mode engaged immediately after I fitted it.
Yuasa. Best non lithium battery and I sold a lot of batteries. The battery in my mower for the last 2 years came out of my Valkyrie. The reason I replaced it in the Valkyrie was because it was 10 years old and I felt I might be pushing it even though it never gave me a problem.
Quando vedo che fa fatica la ricarico, se lo rif\u00e0 in tempi brevi la cambio. La Yuasa che avevo su \u00e8 morta lo scorso anno dopo 6 anni e 60mila km.
The battery is almost certainly dead.
Something else wrong with your car likely killed the battery and if that's the case buying a new battery will just result in the same problem pretty soon.
That battery is absolutely cooked, sounds like the cells have sulfated to hell or there's internal damage from deep cycling
The fact that it's only taking 72-94Wh when it should be 600Wh is screaming dead cells, and that voltage drop from 12.8 to 4v in 2 hours is not normal even with parasitic draw
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