I just changed my rotors and pads myself on my 23 mazda 3, cost me $224 for 4 Bosch rotors and all new Bosch pads.
Stainless steel break lines w/ceramic pads (OEM calipers)\n\n\\-DBA cross drilled rotors
Get raybestos, powerstop, Bosch or akebono brakes. Akebono pads and Bosch Quietcast rotors are the best around
Rotors: Bosch
I just upgraded mine to DBA T2 rotors and Hawk HPS pads. So far I've been very happy with them.
Recently trying Bosch quiet cast though and have been pretty decent.
I'm running DBA T3 Rotors with Powerstop Z26 Street Warrior Pads. I love the DBA rotors and had them on my previous Genesis Coupe. The Rotors aren't cheap with but worth it IMO.
Got DBA T3 4000 rotors on sale from tire rack a couple weeks ago for cheaper than the T2s. Hawk HP 5.0 pads and I'm very happy with the results.
Was literally checking out these rotors for our FJ Cruiser, a lot of other FJ owners use the T2 and T3 rotors but I really wanted to avoid a slotted rotor due to dust and wear concerns. Have a set of DVA XP pads in the meantime.
I bought new set of rotors DBA 5000 T3, (floating rotors) and paired them with ebc rp1 pads. I have rbf600 fluid (around 1,5y old) and braided brake lines. Car is 370z.
Did the bedding in procedure, all good. Rotors have 300km, all works perfectly.
Today i went to a track day and did several very powerful brakings, but also did a cool down lap. And on that first stint, my pedal got soft. Ok, fluid will change.... But stopping in the paddock, the brakes were smoking a bit. I immediately rushed out and did a few km outside, cca 80-90kmh to cool the brakes down. Worked well, they were cool. But then i checked paint markings, all changed colors, indicating rotors exceeded 630°C.
And that was one short stint. So later when i drove, i was very gentle, all good...but i feel slight judder around 120kmh, and when i brake, the steering wheel shakes a bit.
Did i really manage to ruin completely new rotors in ONE stint?
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