We run a Stoptech BBK on the BMW 335 car that I race in endurance races (4, 9 or 12 hour) and we run either slotted or plain rotors, but never run cross-drilled. Our rotors last longer and we don't have the cracking issues associated with cross-drilled.
I have drilled and slotted rotors on my MK7. I have never had any warping or cracking issues with them, or one any other car that I've ever had with them. Performance wise I've never noticed a difference between stock or drilled/slotted rotors except for in wet conditions. When it's wet out break feel is MUCH better with drilled/slotted rotors.
I've been running slotted and cross-drilled rotors on my A4 for 5 years. I've never had one crack, but I don't autocross. For my latest set I looked for drilled, but not slotted, rotors because my last set buffeted at high-speed braking, which feels shaky and unstable, and I read that was because of the slots.
+1 for stoptech st-40s, they're slotted 328mm rotors and 4 pot calipers. Car brakes really nice. Kept the stock rears, although had to replace calipers at about 120k as they were starting to seize. If the car sits for a few days, the rust builds up (I assume in the slots) and makes noise . Goes away after about 30-40 miles. Not sure if drilled would be better. I definitely don't regret it, but modulation from the 4-pot isn't improved the way I thought it'd be. For the same price or just a tad more I could've gone with R32/GolfR/etc. front and rear, I'd probably do that if I were to do it again.
That is not true. I have been running the StopTech BBK with 355x32 floating rotors (Z4M Coupe, 3275lbs + me) for over 2 years with 25+ track days on them and they have not warped.
having a vac at idle is NORMAL... its exactly how it was designed to be... vacuum is drawn on the head and block from the manifold via the PCV system... you test it by taking the pcv off and trying to force air through the valve. if it goes through, its busted... if it doesnt, then your fine.
@tbomb, that's old school thinking. You can easily change the gapping, just don't be retarded and slam a coin or something in there and start bashing away. lol
we did an AutoX last month and i even had the better times. they arent all they are cracked up to be.
its pretty normal for our engines, that's one of the reasons why we change our oil every 3-4k miles. if it ever becomes much more than usual, you could be looking at a leaky seal in your HPFP or the like.
Re: (rhouse181) Quote, originally posted by rhouse181 \u00bb that bearing shattered... it didn't wear due to poor or inadequate lubrication. looks more like manufacturing defect, the outer layer on the bearing shell delaminated and rolled around for awhile. sorry to say this, but that crank is toast... i would start searching for a good used one out of a wrecked motor. this.
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