For me, this car is all about the brakes in terms of gaining lap time. You need to really trail hard into and during the corner and of course it’s a rocket after that.
From brakes have been solid
On a 428 both lower control forward arms including labor I believe $320 to $350
Brake pads brake, w e a r sensor and I believe both speed sensors under $400 no rotors were replaced.
Parts cost about 500$ for front and rear brakes if do yourself.
So far I've been happy with Bosch brake pads.
Bosch Quietcast pads. They have good stopping power, are quiet (so far) and have low dust, so they are great for my daily driver.
If the price is right - yeah, but there are better alternatives than BOSCH, for a little bit more. I installed brakes front and rear, new pads, rotors etc ~9-10months ago, they squealed like a pig for 5-6 of them, and I drive quite a lot, not just short commutes to the shop and back. They have been properly broken into, did everything to spec, bought genuine parts, not a knockoff, squealing like mofo. At the same time, I did brakes on my dads car, diferent brand, and price was ~1 euro more. 0 squealing from day 1, even during break in period. Before they were really good, now - not so much. They work, and they will do the job fine, however there are better brands, that offer value for the price you pay. I avoid batteries made by them, because they like to go bad after warranty.
I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.
As someone else mentioned, the rear brakes are tiny and even running Pagid RS29 race pads, the rears were 3mm more worn than the front after just one track day.
Welcome - get used to it, unfortunately!
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