I've been to 20 track events to this day I'm still running OEM calipers. Just carbotech pads. You don't need a big brake kit at all. The oem cracks because of improper cooldown. I learned that after a session to take my cooldown lap seriously and ever since then i stopped cracking AutoZone rotors
I ran stock rotors for a long time with carbotech xp10/8, front brake ducts, stainless lines, and Motul 660. The XP10/8 + ducts was sufficient for 20min session the tracks I drive.
I have a 2015 Kia Soul I bought new. In over 9 years, not a single thing has gone wrong with it - no repairs of any kind. Just oil, brakes and tires.
I'm using carbotech xp8 on my 3800 pound sedan. They've survived 6 days at the track plus occasional driving around town for a year.
Hey, I track. MK7.5! The floating calipers flex which means you get more pressure on the outer half of the rotor. It's annoying but it's not a problem in my experience.
Something like a Carbotech XP12 pad might do better with the heat but adding brake ducts from the RS3 is cheap and will help quite a bit.
Girodisc should have a 357mm disc available when you've gone through the OE rotors. They're slotted instead of drilled and are 2 piece (aluminum hat).
I am currently using Carbotech XP10's in front and the XP8's for the rears. I really like them and have not had an issue so far. Plus the company has great customer service. They are definitely NOT a street pad, and I need to swap them the night before a track meet and put street pads on the day after, but the effort is worth it.
I just replaced my pads all around with Carbotech so i get majorly reduced brake dust and just OEM rotors.
If you KNOW you're going to be doing a lot of track days, you definitely want to go straight to some full blown track pads, at least for when you're at the track, along with fluid.
Lastly, I had the well-known brake pad deposit problem on the rotors, which over time (about 5-6k miles for me) would cause the steering wheel and car to shake a bit when breaking, similar to the feeling you get when the rotors are warped. I had the rotors cut once, then all four rotors and pads replaced, and then the front rotors were replaced again. As many other Stinger owners online have said, once they replaced the stock rotors and pads with a good set of aftermarket rotors and pads, or some even just machining their stock rotors and getting new aftermarket pads, that seems to have solved the issue for them.
I ran into some brake issues. The pedal started getting squishy even in wet conditions. It never got dangerously deep, but it was still unpredictable. In the last session, the track dried up and I was able to push. I experienced somewhat serious fade. I had to absolutely stand on the brake pedal to get the car stopped. After pulling into the paddock and circling around to let the car cooldown, I still smelled brakes for the next 20+ minutes. The pedal firmed up on the way home.
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