Brake pads STOPTECH or WILWOOD

Hey, I just did this. I'm not sure what your budget is, but these prices are pretty reasonable. You'll be paying less than you did for just the fronts, for all rotors and pads. brakeperformance dot com for rotors - blanks, slotted, cross drilled, dimple drilled, cross drilled and slotted, and dimple drilled and slotted. I snagged all 4 for about $200 -- Free shipping! Realistically, drilled rotors are a thing of the past, in terms of necessary...although, they do look fun! ha carpartkings dot com for pads - StopTech pads. I got front and back for $117, total. -- Free shipping! I have a GLI and I believe the part numbers differ from mine to yours, but they're close in price. If anything, yours may be cheaper. Pads arrived in 2 days. Rotors took around a week. Are you planning to do the work yourself, or are you just looking to buy parts and then pay someone for labor? If you're looking to do the work yourself, let me know. You'll need a few other (cheap) items - caliper grease, anti-squeal paste (some folks don't use it), m14 triple square bit, t30 torx bit, and a piston reset tool or c clamp or pliers. Piston tool can be rented from autozone or other auto parts store or you can find them online. I've never used one, but I hear tale it's easier. I was going to try to use it on mine, but have not.

I had StopTech brakes on an E92 M3, they were excellent, and I recommend them. Whether or not you need them is another question, and I would only offer that it seems to be a questionable undertaking, from a cost effectiveness perspective. If you need more stopping power for \"spirited street\" driving, the solution for that is easy, and free, slow down. As for your anticipated modest track use, good pads and fluid are all you need. I have 10 years of track experience with several cars, including M3, GT3 and ZO6. Although I have not tracked the Golf R, given its modest power level, and the effectiveness of the OE brakes, I am confident they will be fine for your needs, given proper pads and fluid. The real enemy of sustainable braking is heat. Putting much less money in front cooling ducts would probably help more than bigger brakes. With all that said, I agree that fixed calipers offer a design advantage, but probably one that is beyond any real benefit to 99% of folks on this forum. Finally, being able to change pads by simply popping them out the top of the caliper is cool, and obviously faster. But as for me, I'm not sure the time saved is worth the additional cost. After all, we aren't talking about pit stops in critical competition. So, spend your money as you wish, and have fun, but the bang-for-the-buck score on this one is pretty low.

I had both Wildwood and stoptech when working on my previous sti projects. You can't go wrong with either. I really loved stoptech for cost and easiness of changing pads out.

Adam's front slotted rotors, Stoptech Performance front pads.

I have always followed a similar technique that I found from StopTech but it's cool to see what is happening while doing it. And for anyone doing this, it takes a good long drive to cool down everything before you come to a complete stop. I didn't watch the whole thing but heard the guy touch on it briefly and that is if you have to come to a complete stop do not leave your foot on the brake pedal as you will surely leave a big blotch of pad material in that one spot and then you will get the "warped rotor" feeling as that bit of the rotor will be extra grabby.

When I upgraded my brakes I had to measure them myself and give the information to StopTech so they knew what I had.

Here's mine. MMP adapter brackets, stock 11" rotors, BP20 pads. Work very well.

I've got them on my SLC as well. They are amazing. I have stainless hoses and drilled/slotted rotors all around. Went from stock brakes with mintex red box pads, to Girling 60's with hawk hps pads, and put Wilwoods on it last year and the wilwood's just blow the others out of the water. AND they fit under the stock wheels.

Have your brakes been broken in properly? It could be that, I replaced the brakes on Face's car and they had the metal on metal sound for abit till they got fully broken in. The creaky type noise could be your wheel bearing.

I don't know much about Stop-Tech, however, I have heard from a friend that used Wilwood that these perform best in non-Winter driving conditions. He said that over time they will not stand up as well as a Brembo set up. It might be worth noting what climate (Alaska vs California) that you spend most of your driving time in as well when factoring a BBK upgrade. I also noticed that you are quite new to this group so allow me to introduce you to the member who will derail all original posts into something else to the point where your thread may get locked up. See below. GoGo Golf R said: Ok let's try to agree on the following: 1) Upgrading the brakes is mostly justified for track driving purposes No, Personal preference. 2) Changing the brake pads will reduce dust for street driving Depends on your pad choice 3) Changing the brake pads, rotors and brake lines is pricy Subjective 4) The OEM brakes, while not totally ideal for every driving style, will suffice for average street drivers and some track drivers Depends on your driving style 5) Downshifting with correct rev-matching, will extend the duration and reduce wear on the brakes Yes because replacing your clutch is much cheaper than new pads :screwy: