My daughter has a 2016 Civic bought new. First oil change was at 200mi with Mobil1 Extended, and then oil/filter changes at 15,000 or 20,000 mile intervals until 86,500. Switched to Restore and Protect and after 1k miles I changed the filter and cut it open, there were zero sludge deposits, and oil color looked new.
I'm fairly sure Mobil1 makes the Toyota branded oil, which is what I'm running in my 2023 Hatchback XSE. I'm using the Toyota 0W8. I also plan on keeping my car for as long as the wheels turn.
Exactly. Change the oil pressure switch. I would spend $50 and get an oil pressure test set with gauge and check pressure to be sure. Oil must be synthetic that meets proper spec. 5w-40 mobil1 European does.
I've been using Mobil 1 10w30 regular and now High-Mileage Synthetic for decades and most of the Jeeps life.
There’s been a lot of advancements in oils since the YJ was new. I use Mobil 1 0w40 in mine due to its excellent temperature range and proven endurance.
Mobile 1 full synthetic 0W-20 every 5K. My engine hums like a top.
Oil changes are cheap enough now that Mobil1 ESP 0w-30/5w-30 which is Approved by VW as 507 spec is around $28 per jug at Walmart. I'd change it more frequently and not chance it on the 2015 TDI engines in USA.
CKRA Passat, 164k miles, every 10k miles oil changes since new without negative experience. I did a Blackstone report once and oil looked good. I have used Rowe, Liquimoly, Fuchs and Mobil1 ESP.
I work in the automotive industry; and by far, Liqui Molly, Motul, and Total exceed Mobil 1. Mobil 1 has the recognition and they worked hard at marketing for many years. Independent German studies conclude that they are 3rd place at best when it comes to \"good quality\" oils.
I know when I put my stroker block in with stock head/turbo I filled it with 0w-40 and I would get low oil pressure when deaccelerating down hills.. Low enough the light would flash on, got my freaked out! with the new head. and my 71r 72a/r set up going on I'm swapping to 10w-40 mobil 1, because when I took the old head off there was a TON of carbon build up for the small amount of miles I had driven the new block around(less then 2,000 miles). I had changed the old twice already(once ot get the break in oil out and once again at 500 where I dropped the pan to check for metal and such and up in a new pick up tube for piece of mind). I have good reason to believe the 0w-40 is just too thin for the clearances for stroker pistons and such. I'll report back once the car is up and running with the 10w-40 in it. If the oil pressure problems persist I'm thinking about stepping up to 10w-50, but Im in southern California so YMMV depending on how cold/hot it gets around you.
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