I used to use Rotella T4 as recommended by many on the forums. It was fine but I switched to Valvoline 20w50 because it has the additional Zinc like the Rotella T4, and a bit better film strength which protects bearings at high RPM.
I’ve had good luck running Valvoline VR-1 in engines with flat tappet cams.
Valvoline VR1 in whatever viscosity is suitable for the season and the VR1 has plenty of zinc for old engines.
If you’re burning any oil 20w-50 valvoline racing full synthetic. If everything is good and oil 10w30 full synthetic
that oil helped my Honda out tremendously with oil burning.
had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
Valvoline ran better and leaked less in my old 92 civic eg compared to mobile 1
I just switched over to amsoil and my mpg went down marginally. Also using the PPE larger oil filter 10 micron filter.
personally, I think Amsoil AFL is junk. They ruined a stout oil when they reformulated it to mimick 505.01.
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