Y'all might call me a heretic for running Valvoline restore and protect 5w30 in my 4.0T.
Any oil that meets API SP and is the right viscosity grade more than likely is at least as good as the oils specified by the OEMs.
I don't know what it's doing inside my engine but I just did my 2nd oil change with R&P and noticed my dipstick looks new now. No signs of any varnish, just shiny clean metal.
Extra info, I have seen some stuff about valvoline. Engine looks pretty clean inside after they ran valvoline restore and protect.
Change your oil to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30! Change every 3000 miles, filter too!!!!!
Valvoline is the best and bang for the buck for me.
Generally agree with everyone here that it doesn't matter that much.. except for the relatively new Valvoline restore and protect. Seems like it actually does gradually clean out your engine and it's not just marketing bs
I’ve been running it in my 1992 Nissan D21 truck with over 200k for the past two oil changes and it’s gotten rid of a lifter tick it had for the past 20k miles. Runs a bit quieter too. Pretty good oil.
I've been using it for the past 3 oil intervals. I've seen a few oil analysis on the stuff with a few that came from FA24 engines and its wear protection is just as good or better than any GF6 oil out there. Its supposed to also meet the New GF7 oil specification as well that just came out in March.
I’ve had great luck with “Valvoline Restore and Protect” I have a Sportage with the same 2.4L, it burns 4-6 oz. every 3,000 miles. Used to burn 1 qt every 500 miles.
I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.
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