Engine oil VALVOLINE or Motorex

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VALVOLINE Engine oil

I just did the restore and protect on my 2015 and let me tell you that it has made a massive improvement. Immediately the engine runs quieter and smoother and after 500km it’s like my engine has much more power.

Pros: engine runs quieter, smoother
Mileage: 500 km
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VALVOLINE Engine oil

I think that as a general rule you want a motorcycle specific oil in your primary because of specific additives in it for a wet motorcycle clutch. Just don't use a super slick oil like the Valvoline VR1 Racing blue sapphire stuff.

Pros: motorcycle specific oil
Cons: super slick oil
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Motorex Engine oil

I use Motorex semi-synthetic 4t in all of my KTM's over the years in a 15w50 weight. It has never been an issue. I have used Motul 5100 and 7100 in other bikes before, and I prefer the 7100 over the 5100. It feels like the bikes perform better when the temps rise and I'm really riding them hard.

Pros: bikes perform better
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VALVOLINE Engine oil
Krauziak90
Rating 5.0
  • Exhaust smoke:

I recommend valvoline syn power mst C3 for Renault diesel engines with dpf filter. Low saps oil which will produce less carbon in your engine. I have 110hp version of 1.5dci and use this oil for last 6 years. Never had a problem and oil consumption is minimal

Pros: minimal oil consumption, no problems
Vehicle: Renault
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VALVOLINE Engine oil
FitSky6277
Rating 5.0
  • Warning light:
  • Engine noise:
  • Exhaust smoke:

Valvoline is really good and proves it on tests. Available at any auto parts store... currently running it in a westinghouse 2550dfc

Pros: really good, proves it
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VALVOLINE Engine oil
gabegabe23
Rating 5.0
  • Engine noise:

I use Valvoline R&P 0w-20 and my engine sounds healthy. so does my mom’s Velar. I think whats more important is using the correct viscosity and changing it on time.

Pros: engine sounds healthy
Vehicle: Rover
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VALVOLINE Engine oil
joestue
Rating 4.0
  • Exhaust smoke:

Valvoline restore and protect oil or shell rotella t6 oil....

The t6 diesel oil has all the detergents you need to maybe clean out the rings. (And meet the more stringent european standards).

Pros: detergents to clean rings
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VALVOLINE Engine oil

I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.

Pros: works fine for 300-400 bhp
Cons: lost main bearing, sludge until warmed
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