If you’re burning any oil 20w-50 valvoline racing full synthetic. If everything is good and oil 10w30 full synthetic
that oil helped my Honda out tremendously with oil burning.
had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
Valvoline ran better and leaked less in my old 92 civic eg compared to mobile 1
As far as oil , im running valvoline restore and protect. Half way thru first oil change and the caked on varnish is just wiping away. Good stuff.
Just switched from unioil 10w-40 motorcycle oil (for break-in period) to Valvoline premium protect 10w-30 on my pcx160
Di ko alam ganun pala ka laki difference ng oil!
Grabe nawala yung akala kong normal vibration
Best you can do is get your hands on some Restore and protect, 5w30 is fine, 0w20 will get you better fuel economy but a little more wear and obviously 5w40 is the other way round.
Currently on valvoline and it does seem good, not sure if it's better than the elf in the short run but long run could tell different results.
I don't recommend toyota oem fluid for hard driving because it seems to cook easily.
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