I’ve had good luck running Valvoline VR-1 in engines with flat tappet cams.
Valvoline VR1 in whatever viscosity is suitable for the season and the VR1 has plenty of zinc for old engines.
If you’re burning any oil 20w-50 valvoline racing full synthetic. If everything is good and oil 10w30 full synthetic
that oil helped my Honda out tremendously with oil burning.
had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
Valvoline ran better and leaked less in my old 92 civic eg compared to mobile 1
As far as oil , im running valvoline restore and protect. Half way thru first oil change and the caked on varnish is just wiping away. Good stuff.
I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.
I used Pennzoil before but felt real cheap quality and used to get darker before the competitors. I moved to Mobil 1 or Castrol GTX and felt the difference in smoothness.
Write your review
Help others - share your experience with this part.
Voted AGAINST engine oil RAVENOL on the rating page
The brake pads NIPPARTS got the first review!
The brake discs Hella got the first review!
The brake discs OEM Suzuki got the first review!
For tires OEM Toyota already 25 reviews.
For tires IRONMAN already 25 reviews.
For starter motor OEM Volkswagen already 25 reviews.
In the rating best ignition coil already 13 brands participate!
In the rating best fuel pump already 5 brands participate!
In the rating best turbocharger already 4 brands participate!
In the auto rating headlights for Volkswagen Golf already 5 brands participate!
In the auto rating brake pads for Mazda 5 already 10 brands participate!
In the auto rating brake pads for BMW M2 already 5 brands participate!
Voted AGAINST engine oil RED LINE on the rating page
Voted AGAINST engine oil PENNZOIL on the rating page
