I’ve had good luck running Valvoline VR-1 in engines with flat tappet cams.
Valvoline VR1 in whatever viscosity is suitable for the season and the VR1 has plenty of zinc for old engines.
If you’re burning any oil 20w-50 valvoline racing full synthetic. If everything is good and oil 10w30 full synthetic
that oil helped my Honda out tremendously with oil burning.
had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
Valvoline ran better and leaked less in my old 92 civic eg compared to mobile 1
As far as oil , im running valvoline restore and protect. Half way thru first oil change and the caked on varnish is just wiping away. Good stuff.
I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.
I used Pennzoil before but felt real cheap quality and used to get darker before the competitors. I moved to Mobil 1 or Castrol GTX and felt the difference in smoothness.
Write your review
Help others - share your experience with this part.
Voted AGAINST engine oil RAVENOL on the rating page
The brake discs Mintex got the first review!
The power steering pump OEM Volvo got the first review!
The brake fluid DIXCEL got the first review!
For tires GISLAVED already 25 reviews.
In the rating best air filter already 5 brands participate!
In the rating best fog lights already 3 brands participate!
In the auto rating windshield for Subaru Outback already 5 brands participate!
In the auto rating battery for Volkswagen Golf already 5 brands participate!
In the auto rating tires for Honda Civic already 15 brands participate!
For oil additives LIQUI MOLY already 25 reviews.
For battery OEM KIA already 25 reviews.
In the rating best cabin filter already 13 brands participate!
Voted AGAINST engine oil RED LINE on the rating page
Voted AGAINST engine oil PENNZOIL on the rating page
