Change your oil to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30! Change every 3000 miles, filter too!!!!!
Valvoline is the best and bang for the buck for me.
Generally agree with everyone here that it doesn't matter that much.. except for the relatively new Valvoline restore and protect. Seems like it actually does gradually clean out your engine and it's not just marketing bs
I’ve been running it in my 1992 Nissan D21 truck with over 200k for the past two oil changes and it’s gotten rid of a lifter tick it had for the past 20k miles. Runs a bit quieter too. Pretty good oil.
I've been using it for the past 3 oil intervals. I've seen a few oil analysis on the stuff with a few that came from FA24 engines and its wear protection is just as good or better than any GF6 oil out there. Its supposed to also meet the New GF7 oil specification as well that just came out in March.
I’ve had great luck with “Valvoline Restore and Protect” I have a Sportage with the same 2.4L, it burns 4-6 oz. every 3,000 miles. Used to burn 1 qt every 500 miles.
So I went from valvoline max life full synthetic 10w-30 in my k1500 92 gmc sierra sle with the 350 and tow package, flat tapped cam truck, to valvoline restore and protect 5w-30. I was having oil pressure issues, only 188,xxx miles. After switching to R&P, 1500 miles into the oil change, I consistently have above 30psi oil pressure.
Ang nagamit ko palang na brands ay toyota, shell, at valvoline. Walang problema sa 3 na yan. Pero last kong gamit ay valvoline eto yung sakto sa specs sa manual. Mas mararamdaman mo na smooth yung sa makina.
My 03 forester was burning a quart every 1,000 miles when I got it. Switched to restore and protect and it just stopped burning oil. Not even a gradual decrease in the amount it was burning, just completely stopped burning oil all together.
I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.
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