I only run Amsoil fluids and filters. Never had any issues and I track my 17' mostly. \n\nI dont use amsoil brake fluid though. Castrol SRF React is the best brake fluid for dry and wet boiling points. But its pricey
I just go to the amsoil website and get the oil that they suggest, I've taken cars well over 200k with that advice. Don't overthink it. If you don't want to use amsoil for the oil, at least see if they have a low micron oil filter.
I still recommend the OEM oil. I have a mechanic that let's me provide my own parts (if I wish) for a job at no cost. When he does my oil changes I provide the Motorcraft Oil and Oil Filter.
I use Amsoil Signature Series & OEM filter.
Just change it every 6,000km and you’ll be good. Use synthetic, but brand isn’t as important as proper drain intervals.
When I did the change at home-used the motor craft filter FL190S and mobile 1 full synthetic for $35.00. Biggest pain at home is removing the panel under the chassis.
Personally I’ll ONLY use the manufacturer filters on my vehicles and I’ll look through the catalogs to find the largest filter that fits. I’ve been using Motorcraft FL1As on my pu for the 28 years I’ve owned it and it’s cheap insurance.
I've always had good luck with the FL 820s in a 3.0.
For oil filter, I run the same one on my 302 and 390: Motorcraft FL-1A. I believe it is (or was, at least) made by Purolator and is my go-to for my old Ford V8s.
I was skeptical, but I started using it and their best filter in my '98 Durango 5.9 (gas). I ran it for the full 25 K(+) and sent an oil sample out to a 3rd party "Analysts, Inc." for a full analysis - including spectrographic. Basically, their recommendation was that the oil showed minimal contamination, acceptable viscosity, and was still OK for continued use and to re-sample at next interval.
I've seen those leaking at the crimp now multiple times.
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