my 17-yo, 168k Golf 2.0 gets 5/30 full synthetic and either WIX or Bosch filters.
Youll be fine without a subaru filter, if youre using it long enough that it creates the pressure to go into bypass you need to stop being cheap and replace the filter each change and change more often.
I use Bosch Long Life D3300 oil filters and Rotella T6 5w40, gonna see how Motul 8100 5w40 does in comparison.
Avoid 5w30s most of them sheer to a 20 weight by the end of the change interval if you drive your car like its meant to be.
I've never had issues, and I oil test my car a few times a year.
I just buy a Bosch at Walmart. My Accord has been chugging along fine for past 12 years with those.
As long as the filter works well with synthetic oil. Some really cheap ones dont work well with synthetic like the red Purolator or Microgaurds. Bosch makes a great filter, I've used a few in my cars with store brand synthetic oil and oil stayed brown for a long time.
I've had good experience with the Bosch distance plus filters.
oil changed and one new Bosche oil filter later the car now has total oil pressure and runs great.
My lovely girl friend has a 2 door BMW 1997 325i. It's a very pretty car with 176k miles on it. We drove it all over and one day it hit me, when was the last time the oil was changed? She thought her parents maintained it, but after some digging the oil hadn't been changed in 1 1/2 years and possibly 30k miles. I pulled the filter out and it was worse than this, and just fyi BMW filters like these do it kinda often from what I have read.
Then engine had 2.5 out of the 7 quarts it is supposed to have. (poured the oil in a 4 quart jug to see). I have absolutely no idea how it lasted so long. It was a ticking time bomb. So after 6 quarts of oil and the seventh being sludge cleaner, the engine has no more ticks and runs very well.
If you are going to go with extended oil changes 10-20k miles you must use a high quality filter and if not a Group 3 Polyalphaolefin (PAO) oil, an actual full synthetic oil would be best. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are not true synthetic they are (PAO) Group 3. Red-Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the common true synthetics. If you paid less than $15-$20 a quart for oil it's not a true synthetic.
Your filter has to be high quality. Even then I would advise you change the filter and top off your oil at 8k-10k miles.
Oil filters that are able to go for extended runs are Wix, Napa Gold, and Bosch. Those are the 3 brands I trust for long term use. My truck with over 170k miles drives like it did over 13 years ago when I got it new.
After much searching and reading DIY threads, I didn't see any mention of springs for the filter. Your replies confirmed it so I was confident enough to throw the Bosch setup in the trash.
I put in Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 and a Bosch oil filter from autozone. My problem now is that whenever the oil gets up to operating temperature my oil pressure light goes on and stays on under 2400 rpms, anything above that and I'm good.
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