I run the same one and a mobil 1 filter. 48k miles in my 19’ premium. No issues.
I always change my own engine air filter, cabin filter, and until recently the oil and filter (I'm also partial to Fram). The cabin filter is sooooo much easier to change that on my first Honda - 1989 Accord.
I have the same car. I always use 0w-20 (any brand really) at ~7.5k miles. I usually use Mobil-1 oil filter (M1-108A)
We ran only Fram (PH-8A) on our 1971 Ford LTD until the 1990s when we sold the car with 230K miles on it, and it had just started a light main crank bearing knock.
911 here but reading this makes me cringe. 8 quarts of mobil 1 and a filter is $60-70. Takes less than 15 minutes to do.
Ok... so as a DIY mechanic, how tight am I SUPPOSED to tighten oil filters? The box says 1 turn after gasket contact, so that's what I do. It gets pretty tight by the end of a full turn, but I'm still able to do it with my hand (so long as it has one of those rubber grip coated bottoms, like the Fram Tough-Guard). I never have to use a wrench to get it to that point, but it takes about all my hand grip strength to do so. Taking them off is usually requiring a strap wrench, and sometimes it dents/crushes the casing.
I just want a metal body for the spin-on filters in case they’re put on too tight. I’m not a mechanic, but have tore the shit out of a Fram oil filter trying to remove it. The Mobile 1 filters work well on my Camry.
If you have a vw definitely do not use Fram. That shit shrivels up and disintegrates restricting oil flow and given most vw engines use oil pressure to tension the timing belt or chains I've replaced a lot of enigines because of them
I once got a filter without the threads tapped in it. Just a smooth center hole. They swapped it for another Fram but I didn’t love putting on a customer’s car
Yeah, their not the best, unfortunately there the only one besides OEM for my Motorcycle
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