I use either Mobil 1 0w20, or Royal Purple 0w20. For the filter, I use Fram Titanium. I do all routine maintenance myself. I've got a 2015 SR DC with 388k miles, and have never had any issues. It still runs perfectly.
Quality air filter changed regularly. Quality oil filter Frams higher end stuff are surprisingly well made for the $.
I always go OEM for filters and fluids, brakes. other parts are OK. Cabin air filter I made a mistake and bought on Amazon, it had a weird smell to the filter after letting it run, OEM come packaged in sealed plastic so no manufacturer offgassing. Oil filters I always go OEM. Mainly becahse the last thing you want is a piece of dirt inside a boxed oil filter (no plastic) such as Fram or Purolator. Honda oil filters come wrapped in plastic, inside a box. If you go oem for the oil filter, never stick your finger in the hole to open it, always twist the plastic away, such as stick a screw driver/pin through the top of the filter and peel downwards. At my dealer it's happened where a tech would open it by shoving their finger in the bottom and a tiny tiny piece of plastic would clog one of the oil ports inside the engine block starving the head of oil entirly
The OEM filter is not the best in any metric, whether filtration %, efficiency, or longevity. I'd say the OEM A01 filter is regarded as better built too but can be pricier and harder to obtain.
My recommendation would be Fram Ultra XG7317 which is a heavy duty built filter with synthetic media - I happily run this one for two oil changes at 6000 miles before changing.
I typically go with Mobil 1. Fram has been manufacturing filters that use a little flap of tin for the bypass spring which comes on during high oil pressure situations, and at least in Canada i have seen these fail quite early. And not one or two, but closer to 3/10 i have cut open. I should cut more open as my observations are now a bit dated but in my opinion if it has a actual bypass spring inside of it, they will be more effective in the long run since the ones with a actual bypass spring inside of the filter i have personally never seen one fail yet.
And with filter media, you want it to be the vacuum bag. The canister that simply catches the most crap is not exactly the smallest micron rating, but the filter that returns to normal operation reliably when the vehicle hits operating temperature. And if that filter seems too expensive to run, then you really cannot afford to replace the engine.
Edit: Also it is worth checking out your factory supplied oil filter as they usually spring the bypass correctly for the designed engine oil pressure.
Changing the oil filter on 8th gen Si's is a pain in the ass. You need to stick your entire arm around the exhaust header, axle, and steering rack to get to the filter, and then once you barely get a grip and spin it off, it spews oil all over your axle boot and into the subframe.
Fram is absolutely the worst filters ever. Years ago a motorcycle forum I belonged to cut open a bunch of major brand filters, K&N, WIX, FilterPro (store brand style) Fram and NAPA. NAPA and WIX were the best bang for the buck, K&N obviously the best but also much more expensive. Fram was shocking, all the internals were cardboard, no metal reinforcement etc. Absolute garbage.
I had a FRAM oil filter on my 05 Impreza, I think the part number was #PH6607, I noticed i i was “burning” a ton of oil! I went to do my usual 3K Mile oil change. I noticed the oil levels were alot lower than the time i check a few days prior! I looked under the car and there was oil EVERYWHERE! Mainly built up around the filter!
I used a FRAM oil filter on the car at my last oil change and it turns out it collapsed internally triggering a low engine oil pressure to my ECU. The garage (VW/Audi/Porsche specialized) told me to never use anything other than Mann filters on my GTI since everything else is either gonna collapse or be more expensive than the Mann for no added benefits.
The cardboard construction on a Fram filter would have come apart.
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