When I got my new 1992 Corrado SLC I thought the shocks were too soft and replaced them with Bilsteins. They are still fine after 30 years.
I choose H&R lowering springs and Bilstein B6 shocks. A system a little firmer than stock.
When my 2013 GTI hit about 90,000 miles I had the shocks/struts changed out to Bilstein B6, great ride quality and I had no intention of ever lowering the car as I commute to a city with terrible roads.
My Truck feels almost as cushy as my dad's 22 TRD Pro. I can hit speed bumps at easily 10mph faster without discomfort, it rides great on forest service roads and has less body roll than stock.
On our 2014 Mini Cooper S Roadster we installed these Koni’s just a couple of months ago. Ride is much smoother without loosing any steering feel. Speed bumps are much less of a problem now.
This may not be super helpful, as Idk if there is a significant difference in how these shocks play due to the V8 suspension geometry and weight, but b8's on intrax springs on my m5 are just about perfect for a daily driver in my experience. My understanding is that the b6 is valved exactly the same as the b8 but has a different shaft length meant for use with standard/non-lowering springs.
Don’t get the cheapest- Brands like KYB and Monroe are ones to consider. Bilstein if you’re feeling fancy and want to spend the extra.
Do not go OEM. At a minimum, put on Bilstein 5100 shocks at stock height and improve ride and lessen nose dive on braking. I got a set of 4 last year for my son's 1999 3rd gen and paid $300 for install $400 for parts. We used the stock 99 tall springs. I put 5100 shocks on my 2011 and lifted the front 2" and put trd springs on the back to level. Way better off road and firmer on road.
The Bilsteins put somewhat of a level on it, and this may be a n00b question, but curious if they can be modified to add a couple inch lift to the truck? It could use it with the bigger tires.
Bilstein B4s are cheaper but fail significantly faster.
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