I have a N55, e93 And went through the same back and forth between NGK and Bosch. My car is 100% stock. Ordered ZR5TPP33 Spark Plug - Bosch and the car runs just fine.
My F15 had the Bosch ZR5TPP33-S from the factory. I replaced with ZR5TPP33 when doing the valve cover about 20K miles ago, and no problems so far.
If you change the plugs; use the recommended plugs. I used Bosch Double Iridiums in my truck and they've worked good for 4 years now.
I just picked up 6 Bosch dual electrode double iridium spark plugs from autozone near me and threw them in. Fires great!
I used the gimmicky Bosch Platinum 4+ plugs which solved that problem (no more CELs) but sometimes idle is still a bit rough.
I don't use spark plugs like that unless the vehicle specifically specs for them. We used to put Bosch W7DTC's in these, or at a minimum, just the single electrode version.
buy original. or atleast bosch, they are OEM-quality
these BRISK ones are cat in a bag
If it is the skyactive-x be aware that the owners manual advises spark plug replacement at 40k miles and the Mazda plugs are \u00a340 each. I put aftermarket Bosch plugs in and it ran very lumpy and had to replace with Mazda ones.
My s2000 ate the Bosch plugs I put in, which were rated for the car/f20.
I changed the spark plugs on my X5 with Bosch ones. My mechanic showed signs of being upset with me for not bringing the genuine BMW ones... Fast forward to a week ago - the car throws a check engine light and OBD scan shows faulty oxygen sensor heater circuit. My mechanic linked this to the Bosch plugs, suggesting they might not be the correct type. I ended up replacing them with genuine BMW plugs and an O2 sensor, which cleared the codes and improved power. My learning is that Bosch has many SKUs, and it's hard to ensure the exact OE part number, potentially leading to incorrect plug types (e.g., 'double platinum' instead of 'laser iridium') for BMW, costing more in the long run.
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