I opted for the NGK DIFR6D13, since these were suggested by a local Honda dealership. These seem to be perfectly fine for the CR-Z. No complaints at all.
I've been running the NGK "rs7" plugs 06K905601M in my wagon since I went IS20 with an APR stage 3 91 tune. Stock gap out of the box was .026. I've now put about 6k on them and have had zero issues.
I have NGK ruthenium’s and it is noticeably smoother at idle vs iridium’s. Literally zero idle “pop” or misfires
NGK Iridium gapped at 0.026 only. They’re great
I drive a 01 4runner and I run NGK plugs and wires. Almost 300k on the dash.
No issues with Bosch red coils from Shopdap Bosch Red R8 Ignition Coil for VW Audi 06E905115F - Deutsche Auto Parts (shopdap.com) Spark plugs: NGK Ruthenium HX, #92400.
Got some NGK Ruthenium HX plugs at NAPA this morning. Miss is gone, car runs perfectly again. Plus they're cheaper and supposedly will last longer than the platinums.
Thought I would follow up on this discussion. Ordered the NGK LFER7BHX Ruthenium HX. The priority package showed up after some challenges with the local Postal Service. As advised, on Tuesday took the car for a short drive to warm it up then started the task. Was a little pensive taking the engine cover off. To anyone who has never done it on that particular car, just pull each corner straight up about an inch and it comes right off. The cover is held on with posts that fit into rubber grommets so the chance of breaking anything is almost zero. Found a very old 10-14mm open end from the tool kit from a long gone motorcycle in the junk drawer, A few minutes with the belt grinder and a "perfect width for the ground bolt" 10mm open end was discovered hidden inside. The only real challenge is disconnecting the wiring loom from the coil packs. Several iterations of 'watch a video, give it a try, watch a different video, give it a try ...' ensued but I was finally able to get them disconnected. Gently removed the coil packs and one-by-one removed the plug, installed a new one, torque to 30Nm, wash-rinse-repeat. Put a little dielectric grease into the plug boot of the coil pack and the coil pack\\wiring loom connector, a little SYL-Glyde Silicone Grease on the large coil pack to engine seal and reinstalled the coil packs. Torqued the ground bolts to 12Nm, then put on the ground strap and torqued the nut to 12Nm while holding the bolt steady with the afore mentioned "super wrench". Fought with the wiring loom to get it back on all the coil packs, popped the engine cover back on and Bob's you uncle. Drive to the dealer Wednesday morning and went in to talk to the Service Writer. Mentioned that they did not have to rotate the tires (had already put the X-Ice tires on two weeks earlier) nor change the plugs as I had done that the day before. He gave me a strange look and said "Yes, VW recommends they be changed but with only 15,000 miles on the car I would not have bothered". Doh!!! Primary lesson learned here is "Call and schedule service yourself rather than let your wife do it." That way you can challenge the items on the "what will you be doing at this service" before spending an afternoon under the hood. (Side note, it is 'her' car as 'my' car is the FRS, hence her desire to schedule the maintenance.) They did the usual "full inspection" on the car and came back with "the rear brake pads are down to 3mm and should be replaced". They had photos to "prove" the pads were down to 3mm. I though this was strange and will be starting another thread to go over that discussion with the Service Writer.
Used those for the same setup with no drama, stock gap measured at 0.026". I've run lots of different plugs....honestly, they make zero ****ing difference IMHO on my peasant IS20 and 38 1.8 sLOw OTS Uni tune...
I gapped them at 0.70mm, still the car was not what it was. And at high speed the km go up but there is no pulling like before.
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