Should have used NGK Laser Iridium plugs and Hitachi coils.
Mazda skyactiv engines are beyond easy to do. Did it on my 16 Mazda6 in 20 minutes. Probably can be done sooner if the spark plugs are pre-gapped and you're not OCD.
Did 3 of the 4 of them on my wife's CX-9 and it took way longer, due to the turbo parts on top and the engine being set, so far back (vertically challenged and T-Rex arms). Dealer ended up doing the 4th one (driver side plug).
Rock Auto has good deals on the NGK plugs, that are basically the same as the OEM ones.
Torque wrench is unnecessary for plugs. I have several and have never once used them for plugs. 1/4 turn past hand tight is all you need. Good plugs like ngk laser iridium or ruthenium hx will run you less than 40 bucks. A small single use packet of anti seize compound and a 6 pack of your preferred beer. Less than 100 bucks all in and an hour of your time.
NGK plugs have instructions on the package and do not require a torque wrench. I have a torque wrench, but I do not use it for my spark plugs. It's just hand tighten until it makes contact - then turn it however many turns they say with your socket to fully seat it (usually like ½ - ¾ turn or something like that).
You don't need a torque wrench, NGK plugs have a crush washer and specify half turn past initial contact. Did my Mazda 3 with no issues. I have a torque wrench and didn't use it.
The tools aren’t expensive. Yes I use dielectric grease but not anti sieze on the threads (only because BMW orders us not to). Easy job for most cars.
Harbor Freight has the torque wrench you’d need for $19.99 the Pittsburgh 3/8" drive and a 3/8" drive extension set for $16.99. I’d also grab a magnetic spark plug socket from AutoZone for $14.99 (just go straight for the magnetic one, it makes life way easier).
For the spark plugs themselves, I’d stick with NGK, but make sure it’s the correct spec for your car, since they make different cx5's, some being NA and some being turbo.
As for the "paste," some people put antiseize or dielectric grease on the threads to make future removal easier. I personally skip it because I want zero chance of anything getting into the engine, plus grease can amplify the torque applied with the wrench, which is bad. I’m hoping this is what you mean by paste?
If you do it yourself, the first time costs roughly $100-120 for the tools, and still is about half of what the dealer is quoting. After that, you just pay for the spark plugs themselves for future changes, which brings the cost down to around $50-70 per change since now you'll have the tools.
i got a cheap 80cc kit a while ago and it ran awesome for about 3 months, then i let it sit for almost a year in a garage. Now rusted in some places, but still spins freely, and piston is intact. I just installed a centrifugal clutch and a pull starter, along with a new cdi and new coil, but it just wont start no matter what. I keep pulling and pulling and nothing. I even got a lower temp spark plug for it (NGK B7HS). Fuel is going in, carb seems to be working, i believe im using good enough fuel, tried many different fuel/air mixes... but nothing. Can anyone here please help me figure out what could be wrong? If you need any additional info please ask.
EDIT: after some back and forth with the comments, i decided ill try and disassemble/clean the carburetor, and maybe some other things suggested.
I also realize my formatting isnt the best, but this was one of the first few times i posted in reddit, ever...
And to address me just chucking in new parts suddenly? yeah, not the best move, i realize, but ill try and make it work, and a lesson learned.
Anyway, thank you for the help everyone! I very much appreciate it. Perhaps ill post an update on whether i managed to get it running or not
UPDATE: Today i tried most of what you all suggested and unfortunately, still nothing. I opened the carburetor, as clean as could be.
At this point, my only two suspecrs left is the crankshaft magnet getting misaligned, or im just not getting enough rpm with the pull starter, which is already kind of bogus because it produced a decent spark even when not pulling too fast
I just got some fakes with the EAC logo on the box and the accurate Japan stamp with the line under the p. I could tell they were fake just by looking at the poorly machined threads, let alone the crooked ground electrode that looks like it is made out of casted tin lol.
I bought 2 sets of NGK Irridium plugs from Amazon sellers that turned out to be counterfeit. The electrodes were completely worn off with 60k miles on them. They are supposed to last 100,000 miles. The cars were misfiring and had spark knock.
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