I went with the all metal Pierberg pump for my E90, with an N54. The problem with the plastic is that it gets brittle due to thermo cycling, and that is s problem for all of the plastic parts in these engines (valve cover, radiator, expansion tank etc etc). I probably only have 10-15k km on this one so far, but no problems to report and some very long driving days.
I use the same exact part that you bought. On mine I could see where they removed the word Lexus or Toyota from the mold. It's the same part as OEM. I replaced the water pump myself and it wasn't too bad but some of the bolts are difficult to get a socket on.
I used binder clips to hold the timing belt on the driver side cam gears instead of purchasing the tool. Purchased OEM thermostat from dealership and Aisin water pump / timing belt kit from RockAuto. First time doing one, was easier than I thought it was going to be.
If yours is the later style timing kit, get the Aisin kit from Rock. That kit is ALL OE supplier, including an Aisin water pump.
Just wanted to update the community that it took me about 1.5 hours with me taking things slow to change the water pump on my Kentucky made 2018 Camry SE with 165 miles. I changed the water pump with an Aisin model with a new seal as well as drained and refilled the coolant. From what I understand there is a tsb about a false positive water pump error but in my case it was a part failure. After replacement the check engine code went away on its own immediately on first start.
The aisin on amazon might ship faster ? I would go Aisin tho
The OEM water pump is indeed prone to failure after 100k miles and is easy to replace. It will absolutely cause the death rattle.
Pierburg water pumps are known to be good for about 60-80k, which is the usual time they fail (they either leak or the electronics inside fail).
I changed the water pump on my e92 335i N54 2008 after it left me stranded 6 months ago. Approximately 2-3 months later, the car started running out of battery intermittently. At first it was once every month, then every 2 weeks, now it is every week. I've narrowed it down to the water pump staying on when I shut the car off, even when cold. The old water pump did this exact same thing before leaving me stranded. Both the old and new pumps are the all-aluminum Pierburg. I tried running the water pump test procedure with ISTA right after the pump kept running (after shutting down the car) and ISTA couldn't communicate with the pump. However, it did let me run other procedures, so that was not the problem. After letting the car sit down for 30 mins, ISTA was able to communicate with the pump and run the procedures. I have absolutely NO codes. My car does NOT have an IBS sensor, so that is not the problem. If I open a door, unlock the car, etc., the pump stops running. I'm about to purchase a new pump because I have troubleshot everything I could think of, but I can't imagine this brand new Pierburg pump is failing so prematurely (less than 5k kms).
I got all aluminum Pierburg water pump to replace (working) VDO water pump. After putting everything back together, bleeding the system, I turned on the car, drove 40 miles with a couple on and off cycles and then shut it off for a couple of hours. I came back, started the car, I got the low coolant level warning, understandable, air escaped the system (I guess I didn't bleed it enough lol). Topped it off, drove 20 miles back home and then heating suddenly stopped working and coolant temp started rising. Went from 95 C to 100, then 105 and that's when I shut the car off, didn't want it to overheat. Ever since then, my pump works intermittently. I had a laptop set up next to me with INPA on today and drove close to the house to have the car ready for emissions (thank God!). After bleeding the system two more times yesterday it seemed like it was fine but while driving today, after maybe 20 minutes of driving, the pump stopped working and would not come back on again. It was like trying, the percentage rose to 30-35% and then back to zero immediately. Temperature went from 90 C to around 110 C rather quick obviously. Then out of nowhere, it started working again for a bit. Got close to the store I was going to, and it stopped working again. I was able to pull into the parking lot as it got to 120 C and got a yellow overheating warning. On my way back home from the store, the pump only started working again maybe 3 minutes from home, had to stop once and then turn off the car and keep rolling most of the way to not let it overheat. Also, there's no heating from the vents until I set it to 28 C but at the same time there's no movement from the pump in INPA.
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