vs
Water pump Gates or Pierburg
we always used Pierburg assemblies with Mahle gaskets/o-rings if needed.
Pros: Pierburg assemblies used
The BMW original from pierburg last way longer than 60,000 miles, more like 90,000 miles. Plus, as time went on they made them better than before. Getter a new one today will last longer than the original one.
We routinely get cars with 120,000 miles on their first water pump too.
Pros: long lasting, improved quality
Vehicle:
BMW
Mileage: 144841 km
My car had a Pierburg on it for over 100k miles and 12 years. It still worked great before I replaced it out of caution.
Pros: long lasting, worked great
Mileage: 160934 km
I went with the all metal Pierberg pump for my E90, with an N54. The problem with the plastic is that it gets brittle due to thermo cycling, and that is s problem for all of the plastic parts in these engines (valve cover, radiator, expansion tank etc etc). I probably only have 10-15k km on this one so far, but no problems to report and some very long driving days.
Pros: no problems to report
Vehicle:
BMW
Mileage: 15000 km
Pierburg water pumps are known to be good for about 60-80k, which is the usual time they fail (they either leak or the electronics inside fail).
Pros: reliable for 60-80k
Cons: prone to leak/electronics fail
Vehicle:
BMW
I went with Gates. My oem pump on my Mazda CX9 failed at 90k.... The bearing failed and the amount of bearing material in the housing was crazy.
Cons: bearing failed, crazy material
Vehicle:
Mazda
Mileage: 90000 km
I got all aluminum Pierburg water pump to replace (working) VDO water pump. After putting everything back together, bleeding the system, I turned on the car, drove 40 miles with a couple on and off cycles and then shut it off for a couple of hours. I came back, started the car, I got the low coolant level warning, understandable, air escaped the system (I guess I didn't bleed it enough lol). Topped it off, drove 20 miles back home and then heating suddenly stopped working and coolant temp started rising. Went from 95 C to 100, then 105 and that's when I shut the car off, didn't want it to overheat. Ever since then, my pump works intermittently. I had a laptop set up next to me with INPA on today and drove close to the house to have the car ready for emissions (thank God!). After bleeding the system two more times yesterday it seemed like it was fine but while driving today, after maybe 20 minutes of driving, the pump stopped working and would not come back on again. It was like trying, the percentage rose to 30-35% and then back to zero immediately. Temperature went from 90 C to around 110 C rather quick obviously. Then out of nowhere, it started working again for a bit. Got close to the store I was going to, and it stopped working again. I was able to pull into the parking lot as it got to 120 C and got a yellow overheating warning. On my way back home from the store, the pump only started working again maybe 3 minutes from home, had to stop once and then turn off the car and keep rolling most of the way to not let it overheat. Also, there's no heating from the vents until I set it to 28 C but at the same time there's no movement from the pump in INPA.
Pros: aluminum pump, peace of mind
Cons: pump works intermittently, overheating
Vehicle:
BMW
Their water pump especially is garbage.
Cons: water pump is garbage
I use the aisin kit or oem honda. I’ve had the tensioners in the dayco kits fail, and the water pumps in the gates kits fail
Cons: water pumps fail
I find it weird that the water pump went bad since i changed it about a year ago with a Pierburg water pump. Next morning my car started overheating. Tried bleeding the system and the pump wouldn’t engage.
Cons: pump went bad, car overheating, pump wouldn't engage
Vehicle:
BMW
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