I use Red Line in everything. The M3 gets 15w-50.
Vehicle:
BMW
Reviews of spare parts for BMW
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I use the 5W-40 in my e46.
Vehicle:
BMW
Shell Rotella T6 15w40, has worked fine in my F800GS for 40k miles.
Pros: worked fine
Vehicle:
BMW
Mileage: 64000 km
Castrol semi synthetic Actevo for my F800st.
Pros: reliable performance
Vehicle:
BMW
Mileage: 30000 km
I've always been a Castrol man for my BMW car.
Pros: reliable performance
Vehicle:
BMW
Well I decided to try Motorex on my F800 GS, bought the 4T Top Speed full synthetic, in 15W50, boy I cant help it but recommend this oil, the gearbox is so smooth and silky.
Pros: smooth and silky gearbox
Vehicle:
BMW
If you wanted to try an additive I would recommend Red Line. I had a BMW with tank level issues and it corrected it
Pros: corrected tank level issues
Vehicle:
BMW
Running LM 10W-60 full synthetic in my S14. After 5000miles I can't say one is better than the other. Does the job, still has healthy color. Motul was also fine, no debris in oil filter, normal discoloration.
Pros: healthy color, does the job
Vehicle:
BMW
Mileage: 8046 km
Add me to the club of owners who are being hit with $8K+ repair bills because of the faulty ac compressors in the 2014-2015 i3.
Recently, a random sound started after I turned on the a/c, so I immediately turned it off. No warnings or notifications came up about anything malfunctioning. I took my car in for a diagnostic test and nothing came back. They checked off that the a/c was working properly.
Not satisfied, I eventually took it to another dealership and they said that they couldn’t reproduce the problem. I finally was able to take it to another BMW dealership when the sound came up recently . The service attendant immediately noted that it sounded like the compressor was going out.
The next business day, I took it to my normal BMW service center and they set it up to be looked at. After I explained the problem with the compressor they quoted a diagnostic charge of $170. They connected it to a diagnostic code reading device and saw codes for the compressor. First, they quoted me $3,200 to replace the compressor and parts (labor included), but then after I approved the service they called me back a few hours later and told me they needed to look further into the problem, and that it would cost an additional $600.
They concluded that metal broke off of the compressor and contaminated the connecting parts.
The new repair total was now $8K, with over $4K for labor. The compressor, condenser, and HV battery accumulator need to be replaced. A flush is also needed. How was none of this discovered before I told them what to look at. Eventually they will need dedicated EV specialist.
I immediately called BMW’s EV department for assistance with this issue. This is clearly a known issue. How did they not catch this before it was even a $3K issue, my car has had multiple diagnostic test run.
A few years ago, my last car (C-Max) had an issue with the transmission, but the manufacturer replaced it at no cost because they acknowledged the problem with that particular model. I didn’t have to call them at all. They even gave me a loaner car. I have loved driving my 2015 i3 for the last 3 years. After this, I think I may be a “one and done” BMW owner.
If you are currently thinking about purchasing an i3, refrain from purchasing any i3 model with this common problem.
Cons: faulty compressor, high repair cost
Vehicle:
BMW
Main problem with depos, is they aren’t always sealed properly, so the headlights will have moister inside.
Cons: not always sealed properly
Vehicle:
BMW
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