But during the ownership i found it really reliable, the only things i needed fixing were: battery (it was the original one over 7 years old), tyres and brake discs/pads (consumables on any car) and the regular oil/filter services.
Actively replacing our alternator now, I used this video to confirm that it was the same sound.
A lot of people are essentially saying "don't beat on it until that gauge reads warm," which is incorrect. BMW, in the G series, switched to showing *coolant* temperature on the speedo and not oil temperature. That is NOT the oil temperature gauge, and oil takes a lot longer to heat up than coolant. When that gauge shows operating temperature, give the car another 10 minutes or so to get the *oil* up to temp.
Just drive it. With these 0w20 oil is circulated immediately. My G20 330e does a cold start when accelerating the highway. The RPM limit is protecting your engine so even with a kickdown it won't go above 4k RPM and will shift very early.
i drive a g21 330D xdrive, I've been researching warm up procedures and people recommend letting the oil circulate for 30+ seconds then cruising in eco pro as the torque band is toned down and it changes gears as early as possible.
I've owned my 2013 535i M Sport since 2018 with 44k miles. Other than the regular maintenance items... 2021- oil filter canister gasket replacement -$ 800 ( I think. I can't find the receipt) 2024- passenger valve cover gasket- $660 Driver's door handle replacement -$250 2025- water pump and thermostat- $1750
It happened to me once at a night time. I just pulled over, stopped the engine and started again after several minutes and everything was OK.
Edit: After reading other's comments, I realized that mine also related to coolant system. Some time after this incident I replaced radiator because of a coolant leak. May be this warning is related to that.
With the stock run flats th ride is brittle and harsh.
Cylinders 1-3 were misfiring. They couldn't get the spark plug out of cylinder 3 because the other dealership had over tightened it. They had to get a special tool to remove it. The tool BROKE because apparently it was so overtightened and mis-threaded. They finally got it out yesterday and sent the cylinder to the machine shop to get the head off. I just got word that there is a hole in the piston and the valve head is completely gone. They are saying now that it has nothing to do with the spark plug being overtightened. He asked about driving through water, and road conditions. It was a dry day. Not an issue. They said I need a new motor at this point.
Hey, something similar happened to me with my BMW bike. I only had a broken front headlight and indicator, but they added extra things and did some extra damage to the silencer, rear taillight, and added tank scratches.
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