Too many fuel pumps die because of people upgrading the pump with has more amperage but they don't upgrade the fuel pump wires to handle that extra heat. Your setup still seems pretty mild so maybe you don't need to replace your wires but can just run a Bosch 044 like everyone else (including me) has tested tried and true with 660cc Siemens injectors.
I’ve always bought Bosch wiper blades and had good experience with them. I live in Washington so I definitely use them a lot
Bosch are the best and easy to fix.
For me it was the starter. It was replaced a few years prior at a local mechanic and I don't know what brand they used. I got the part numbers and bought a Bosch equivalent from fcp for less than 300.\n\nI dont know exactly why and neither do the mechanics that wanted an answer if I found one. The old starter spun fast enough to start injection. Maybe just not enough power to get it past the initial revolution after firing. All I know is its been close to year and hasn't done it once since I replaced the starter. It now starts first time everytime.
Mine made that noise a few years ago; ripped it apart and re-greased it, and the sound went away until this summer, and I gave in and bought a new Bosch unit.
I got a Bosch reman (listed as Denso)... so far so good.
Another thumbs up here for Bosch Quiet Cast rotors & pads...they last longer in Buffalo's rust-belt conditions than any other brands I've tried, and they're quiet & they work great.
I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.
my Bosch BOVB 5 TON sprung a leak and vented the coolant February 24th 2025 14 months and 6 days after install. Which means past the labor warranty but within the parts warranty. part took a full month to get, now that I am finnally getting it fixed.
I had a Bosch alternator die in <6 months. Got installed in November 2024 and it died a few weeks ago.
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