I like the EBC SR11 but a little noisy at lower speeds & temps.
Cons: noisy at low speeds
Vehicle:
Honda Civic
Reviews of EBC brake pads
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I just changed my oem rear pads to them after 160,000km and it works well without any vibrations.
Pros: works well, no vibrations
Mileage: 160000 km
I've had very bad experiences with EBC pads and yes they were genuine.
Cons: very bad experience
I’m now 500 miles into the EBC Redstuff brake pads I recently installed. It was kind of dicey at first, like “did I make a bad move?” dicey. Very rough stopping in the first 50 miles, then just mildly rough for another 150 or so. The good news is that stopping is buttery smooth now that the pads are fully bedded in. Just smooth as silk.
Pros: smooth stopping, buttery smooth
Cons: rough stopping initially
Mileage: 500 km
I went with ebc green as red was overkill for red is less dust and heavier cars from my understanding. The greens do me just fine as i dont beat my vb from point a to point b all the time.
Pros: fine for daily driving
I ordered Red stuff pads off of Amazon, with the car in my garage being a 2023 WRX, and the pads I got did not fit at all. In fact, the box said they were for a 2015/later Legacy.
Cons: incorrect fitment
Vehicle:
Subaru
Yellow stuff. If you don't track they're the better value. Less dust on your wheels, they'll perform in the cold better
Pros: better value, less dust
Vehicle:
Hyundai Veloster
I got red EBC performance brakes for like $150. Installed myself. No shaking. Handles very well. Fits perfect.
Pros: easy install, good handling
Vehicle:
Hyundai Veloster
I had oem pads then changed to ebc yellow stuff pads, huge a world of difference and I can’t recommend it enough but avoid the grooved disks from ebc as you get mad vibration sounds under heavy braking
Pros: huge a world of difference
Cons: vibration sounds under braking
Vehicle:
Skoda Octavia
Get OE blank rotors, a set of your preferred pads and some good high temp brake fluid. (I really like EBC yellow stuff for daily, autocross, and light track stuff.) Unless you're really going hard on the track, there's not a real need for slotted or drilled. Even when I did hard track stuff I still just rocked the blank rotors most of the time. They still held up well and were cheaper to replace too.
Pros: good performance, cheap
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