I bought a Luk clutch kit that has given me no issues I think it’s like a stock replacement.
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Germany
It's been running great since a mechanic rebuilt it with Luk kit
having the engine back in and bolted up the weight of the clutch pedal is SUBSTANTIALLY better and it now feels like a commuter car’s clutch pedal rather than a leg press.
Mudei na minha carrinha em Novembro/2024 (curiosamente tamb\u00e9m Focus 1.6tdci) e paguei no total 670\u20ac. \nNa fatura vem descriminado o kit com o valor de 440\u20ac (LUK) e o restante para m\u00e3o de obra.
I can answer that. i too upgraded my clutch in my 6R with a RSR kit from HS Tuning and even though my stock original flywheel was not too bad of a shape, i opted to have it replaced since i was putting everything else new. So i opted with the LUK version.
Luk is a solid brand. You can get a brand new Luk flywheel for $68 which is only a few bucks more than having your oem one turned. Probably worth it to have a nice clean perfect surface to mate the clutch to.
I replaced my clutch earlier this year and chose Luk's clutch kit because it was cheaper. It works fine, but putting the car into first gear was a little bit harder at the beginning, it almost felt as if I wasn't pressing the clutch all the way, but I was. It got a little better over time, and changing through every other gear is like before the clutch was replaced.
Just did a LUK 10-064 clutch kit and LUK DMF118 flywheel a few weeks ago. Still at the break in stage, but so far so good.
Put a clutch in a Jeep Wrangler. Luk kit and Luk flywheel from local Napa. Get it running, was setting misfire codes on 2 companion cylinders. Scoped it and had a bunch of noise on the crank sensor that matched where the ignition for the two missing cylinders triggered.
I replaced the disc with LUKs kit and also had my flywheel resurfaced to be safe. The new set-up has about 300 miles on it and continues to slip. Most noticeably around 2700 - 3400 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear. I can feel it seem to slip then catch and gain a magical 15 hp. I have not allowed the clutch to slip enough to have glazed the clutch disc so that's not a possibility, and my "auto" adjusting clutch cable seems to be okay (I can push the transmission arm downwards and the clutch cable spring returns it to the 9 o'clock position). Proper torque specs and sequence were followed and everything was extremely clean upon installation. Also there are no leaks so there is no fluid getting on the disc. New clutch disc, re-surfaced flywheel, new rear main seal, new pressure plate.
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