Ya, I recommend Mahle's for most builds. In fact we like them so much that we had a some custom made on a heavier duty forging, with a heavier duty wrist pin- so we can use them on bigger power builds then the standard PowerPak pistons which are actually somewhat light duty.
get a set of mahle 4032 alloy pistons unless you're going for very high power levels. you'll barely hear bad things from 2618 alloy piston owners, but 2618's have been known to piston-slap on cold starts, depending on the tolerances of the build.
I have several VW/Audi cars and I use Mahle oil filters most of the time. I've heard some horror stories about other aftermarket filters causing some problems, particularly on the water cooled Vanagons (I have one). Mahle and Mann seem like the best option.
Putting together a cart on RockAuto.com Ignition : Distributor Cap - BOSCH Part # 03214 Ignition : Distributor Rotor - BOSCH Part # 04038 Ignition : Spark Plug Wire Set - BOSCH Part # 09273 OE Engine : Valve Cover Gasket - BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0361431 High Temp Cork/Rubber Engine : Timing Belt - BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0260176 121 teeth; Trapezoidal tooth profile; Neoprene construction for durability. Ignition : Spark Plug - BOSCH Part # 7900 {#7500, W7DC, WR7DTC} SUPER PLUS Fuel/Air : Air Filter - MANN Part # C2860 Fuel/Air : Fuel Filter - BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0430798 Engine : Oil Filter - MAHLE Part # OC108 Am I missing anything?
the stock pistons are REALLY strong, the best piece of hardware you can get on a race engine is Mahle, the stockers are Mahle and forged...
I like the Mahle filter because it has a notched end on it, no need for a filter wrench anymore.
those Mahle pistons are badass i wish I could afford a set i'd be drivin a 2.0t already
Ok I had the my 06a block machined to 81.5 mm in order to take out some damage to 2 of the cylinders. Just got the block back and I'm getting everything ready for install but all my piston ring end gaps are big.
I have the same one in my E53 X5 3.0 and it takes forever in the winter to warm up. I replaced the old one as it was leaking but the new one takes like 10miles to get fully up to temp. If I have a long coast up to a stop the temp gauge will actually go back down.
I just be replaced mine for the low regulating temperature, and the snag seemed to improve, but it will still pop up and the car is slow to hit temp, slower than it was last winter at least.
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